Last week in the Dining Section of The New York Times, Eric Asimov wrote a most interesting article,“Time Doesn’t Dim It’s Sparkle, Tasting Dom Perignon From Various Decades.”

It reminded me of a trip I took to Champagne last year which culminated in a dinner at Chateau de Saran, once a hunting lodge for Champagne’s royal family, now used to accommodate privileged guests of Dom Perignon. The extraordinary dinner was given by Richard Geoffroy, Chef de Cave of Dom Perignon, and the food, under the direction of Chef Bernard Dance, was exceptional. There were twelve of us with Richard, Maximilian Riedel, CEO of Riedel Crystal North America, and Michel Rolland, renowned Bordeaux-based oenologist in attendance, which made for some very stimulating conversation.

The menu and the wines were the stuff that dreams are made of: Caviar St James accompanied by Dom Perignon 2003, Turbot aux Coquillages with Dom Perignon Oenothèque 1996, Pigeon Façon Bécasse with Dom Perignon Oenothèque 1982 en magnum, Assortment de Chèvre with Dom Perignon Oenothèque 1966 en magnum and Glacé au Poivre de Sichuan with Dom Perignon Oenothèque 1966 en magnum. Quite a dinner!

I also visited Krug, Ruinart, Veuve Cliquot and Moët & Chandon, with fabulous food and wine stories to tell, but that’s for another day.

-Roberta Morrell