It’s 2016, and as fans of Barolo and Barbaresco, that means that we have a great reason to organize both 20- and 15-year retrospectives of two of my favorite past vintages, 1996 and 2001. Plans for a ‘96 retrospective are in the works, but today I’d like to share our recently-completed tasting of 2001 Barolo.
2001 is a vintage that has a lot of meaning to me. As a collector, it was the first classic vintage that I could taste on release. Thinking back to those days, and all of the hype surrounding the 2000 vintage, I vividly recall the first of the 2001s arriving. Compared to the 2000s, I couldn’t help but be moved by the ‘01’s sense of refinement and structure. It was the first time that I had witnessed a wine that moved me emotionally, and although they weren’t pleasurable to drink at the time, it was possible to imagine, or forecast, the greatness of these sleeping giants.
The aromatics displayed an intensity of fruit that was held in check by floral, mineral and earth tones. On the palate, we were presented with a glimpse of their potential as a pure core of razor-like focused fruit that steamrolled across the the palate, yet was then quickly smothered as a wave of fine tannin coated the senses. The 2001s were finessed, mid-weight and built for the cellar. At the time, I couldn’t even put these sensations into words, as it took tasting many more structured vintages before I truly understood what I was experiencing.
As I placed these wines into my cellar, I was fully aware that it would be many years before I could consider opening one on the basis of it providing a pleasurably mature experience. I would shake my head in regret each time I read a tasting note on 2001 Barolo, for how could they possibly be ready to drink?
Then in December of 2011, my Barolo tasting group held our first blind 10-year retrospective on the vintage. It was a painful experience. Even as the wines had been decanted much earlier in the day, they were a wall of tannin. We left the experience with palates that were lashed by tannin. Doing my best to report back to readers on the vintage, all I could do was to use the small data-points that I was able to retrieve prior to each wine’s tannic shutdown on my palate. The broad message was that these wines needed more time.
However, what followed were a number of events that cast a worrisome light over the vintage. First was a report from Antonio Galloni of Vinous in 2012 that reported that he had found a high percentage of cork-related issues as he completed his own 2001 retrospective. This was followed by a number of tastings of my own, as well as by fellow collectors, where the wines were found to be overly austere, or in a state where the fruit seemed to be drying as the tannin remained firm and overwhelming.
For years now, we have all worried about the 2001 vintage, and so going into our recent tasting, there was a level of anxiety that was shared by the group. Would these wines confirm our worries or put them back on track to being a youthful yet classic vintage?
I’m very happy to report that it is the former. Our blind 2001 tasting showed a vintage of remarkable character that will continue to mature over the next two or more decades and is just now starting to show its entry into an early drinking window. Are these wines ready to drink? Absolutely not, but with a little coaxing, I’m sure you’ll have the same experience that we did. As for the regiment, each member was instructed to open and double-decant their wine by noon for a tasting that started at 7pm. When it comes to the cork issues that Antonio had experienced, we did have one corked bottle, but these things happen, and it’s difficult to either confirm or deny the problem without tasting a much broader selection of wines.
For the sake of providing a more in depth selection, I have included, with our blind retrospective, a small number of 2001 Barolo that were tasted within the last six months. They have been marked as “Non-Blind!”. Enjoy!
2001 Barolo Retrospective
(This was a blind tasting with capsules removed before bagging. Most wines were double-decanted at noon. Bagging was done with no set order. Attendees knew what wines were present at the table, but they had no information otherwise.)
Aldo Conterno Barolo Granbussia Riserva 2001 – An initial whiff of nail polish remover gave me pause; however, the ‘01 Granbussia came around in the glass to reveal ripe dark-red fruits, sweet herbs, and spice in an intense expression on the nose. On the palate, it displayed silky textures with herbal-infused red fruits and a hint of bitter blackberry. The finish was medium in length and slightly herbal. Having tasted this on a number of occasions, I admit to being surprised by this night’s slightly clumsy performance. (91 points)
Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato 2001 – The nose showed smoky cherry with minerals, dried leaves and hints of savory herbs. It was dark on the palate, driven by minerals and tart black fruits, on a medium-bodied frame with cheek-puckering tannin. It finished on dried cherry and hints of wood. Although this came across as slightly austere, there is some pleasure to be found in its current state of evolution. (92 points)
Conterno Fantino Barolo Sori Ginestra 2001 – The nose was deep in its spice-inflected dark red fruits, spice and earthy mineral tones. On the palate, I was greeted by soft and inviting textures with dark, spicy fruits enveloping sweet tannin. Earth tones emerged over time, as well and minerals and savory herbs. It finished on palate-saturating fruit and a hint of bitterness. (91 points)
Gaja Sperss 2001 – I was greeted by a dark, intense, yet polished bouquet of black cherry, spice, tobacco and sweet herbs. On the palate, brilliant red fruits, exotic spice, and floral tones were contrasted by hints of pine, earth, and fine-grain tannin. The finish was long, yet inward in its tart black fruit and tannin, begging for more time in the cellar. (93 points)
Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis 2001 – On the nose, I found ripe cherry and minerals with dusty red floral tones, hints of spice and sweet herbs. It was soft and alluring on the palate through its brisk acidity, displaying notes of ripe cherry, plum and earth. Tannins mounted through the experience as the fruit seemed to saturate the senses, turning darker with time, leading into a finish that showed the structured youth of this young Riserva. (93 points)
Brovia Barolo Rocche 2001 – What an intriguing bouquet, as the Brovia Rocche seems to pull you deeper into the glass with its display of undergrowth and crushed stone giving way to charred meats, dark fruit and hints of herbs. On the palate, I found silky textures, firmed up quickly by brisk acidity and youthful tannin, yet still showing focused cherry and strawberry fruit along with inner floral tones. The finish was long, yet youthfully austere with remnants of dried cherry and minerals. (94 points)
Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero 2001 – The ‘01 Monvigliero is almost impossible to resist at this stage of its life. On the nose, a display of exotic floral tones, savory herbs and black olive were offset by alluring notes of ripe strawberry fruit and minerality. On the palate, I found soft, velvety textures with fleshy, yet bright and vibrant red fruit, sweet herbs and inner floral tones. It finished on a note of sweet herbal tea and dried strawberry, with fine tannin that was nearly enveloped by it’s juicy and vibrant fruit. This was a real stunner. (94 points)
Cappellano Barolo Piè Rupestris Otin Fiorin (Gabutti) 2001 – The nose displayed airy and lifted red fruit with notes of dusty spice, menthol and licorice wrapped firmly around a mineral core. On the palate, it displayed radiant cherry and pomegranate with hints of spice and firm ’01 tannins, which provided a saturating and concentrated fruit sensation along with grip to spare. The finish resonated on fine tannin and lingering dried cherry and sweet herbs. (94 points) Non-Blind!
Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate Le Coste 2001 – The bouquet was pretty but compact, showing black cherry, dusty soil, licorice, sweet spice and undergrowth. On the palate, it was tightly wound up in its structure, with notes of dried cherry, strawberry fruit, tobacco and savory herbs. It finished tight and restrained with dried fruits lingering long. This really showed the classic structure and tannin of the vintage with brilliant, focused fruit, yet remains many years away from its peak. (95 points) Non-Blind!
Vietti Barolo Rocche 2001 – The ‘01 Rocche was the personification of pure class and elegance. On the palate, I found dark red fruits with a hint of wood, followed by floral rose, sweet herbs and spice. Soft textures eased the senses, while brisk acidity gave life to brilliant cherry fruit, minerals and inner floral tones in a truly elegant expression of Rocche. The finish was long with hints of fine tannin, dried cherry and lasting inner floral tones. If you have the ‘01 Rocche in your cellar, then you’re in for a real treat. If not, then what are you waiting for? (95 points)
Article, photos and tasting notes by: Eric Guido
With the 2015 Bordeaux futures in full swing, It’s gotten me thinking a lot about the world’s most collectible wine. As a wine lover and collector myself, I almost entirely ignored Bordeaux, mainly because of timing. For me, it was the 2005 futures that were being heavily advertised during the formative years of my wine-collecting life. I watched as prices climbed and collectors scurried to buy the very best wines. Many speculated if the inflation could possibly last, while others bought deeply. I, for one, was priced out before I could even jump in. At the time, Italy was my thing, and so Bordeaux got put on the back burner.
Fast forward thirteen years, and I found myself tasting through a large horizontal of 2005 Bordeaux. As I moved from bottle to bottle, I couldn’t help but think about how much of a fool I had been. Not only did I fail to buy these wines upon release, but I also misjudged the market, as the 2005 vintage not only maintained its value, it actually continued to increase. That night, I learned a valuable lesson about the staying power of Bordeaux.
These days, I take advantage of any chance I can get to taste mature Bordeaux, even as the region has seen some decline in popularity over the last few years, I believe Bordeaux is on the verge of a major comeback. All it takes is a tasting of vintages’ past and a little faith, as these are wines that truly belong in the cellar.
So as the 2015 futures continue to trickle out, my advise is to watch them closely; maybe even jump in as I should have all of those years ago. Because if you think that Bordeaux has hit a ceiling, think again. These wines will be pleasing palates and appreciating in value for many decades to come.
About a month ago, I was given the opportunity to taste through a large selection of Bordeaux’s best from recent vintages. Names like Hosanna, Haut Bailly, Palmer, Ducru Beacaillou, Pichon Lalande and Mouton Rothschild all adorned the table. Tasting these young wines was a challenge and maybe even a bit of a shame since they were so far away from maturity. Yet it was the potential that was on display. That tense, tightly coiled fruit, like a freight train across your palate, that leaves a searing score of tannin in it’s wake. It’s that same intensity that tricks you into thinking these wine might be too dry or reticent–but that’s simply what young Bordeaux tends to be.
Then to taste these same wines later in the evening, but instead from vintages that were 10, 15 or even 20 years old–it’s a tasting like this that seals the deal for anyone who’s on the fence with Bordeaux.
As these wines age, they soften. It’s not that they gain volume or weight; instead what time adds to Bordeaux is texture, that and the tertiary aromas and flavors that mature wine is known for. As the youthful tannins recede, that same tightly coiled fruit relaxes, unveiling a sensation like silky being drawn smoothly across the palate. The experience continues to heighten as the wine moves through the incline of its drinking window, which can last for decades. It’s an experience like this that seals the deal for a collector like myself, and it begs the question of why I don’t buy more Bordeaux.
On to the tasting notes:
2005 Château Hosanna – Worth waiting for, the 2005 Hosanna was at first quite coy and ungiving, as members of the group quickly passed it up for the 2000 vintage. Yet as it sat in the glass, an evolution took place that firmly placed this wine as one of the best of the evening. The nose showed dark red and blue fruits, along with savory herbs and gravel dust. On the palate, a core of crushed raspberry and currant saturated the senses and left notes of dark chocolate and savory herbs. The finish seemed to go on for over a minute, along with a coating of fine tannin that should guarantee this Hosanna another 20 years or more of positive development. (96 points) at Morrell
2000 Château Hosanna – What a great way to start an evening of Bordeaux. The 2000 Hosanna is a wine that gives and gives yet remains perfectly balanced and elegant throughout. Its alluring and evolved bouquet combined a mix of cedar and spicy with ripe strawberry and chalky minerals. Undergrowth and a hint of blueberry skins emerged with more time in the glass. On the palate, it displayed silky textures contrasted by tart berry fruit, inner floral tones and a hint of sweet pepper. A hint of tannin remained on the long finish, yet the 2000 is already perfectly enjoyable today. (94 points) at Morrell
2008 Château Haut-Bailly – The ‘08 Haut-Bailly showed beautifully and open on this night with an alluring mix of ripe plum, cherry, tobacco and sweet herbs on the nose. On the palate, I found silky textures offset by a hint of rough tannin, yet its mix of blackberry and cherry fruit provided cushion against the ‘08’s austerity and ultimately resulted in a highly enjoyable performance. The finish showed more of the wine’s tough structure, yet it was forgivable after everything this wine gave before. (92 points) at Morrell
2000 Château Haut-Bailly – The nose was intriguing and really seemed to pull me closer to the glass with each sip. Here i found a savory mix of olive and rosemary with intense black raspberry fruit and minerals. On the palate, still-youthful tannin and a bump of acidity created a very taut persona with a twang of bitter fruit. It finished on dried red berries and fine tannin. (91 points) at Morrell
2006 Château Palmer – The turning point of the tasting for me was the 2006 Palmer, a dark and authoritative wine that would probably not appeal to a wider audience, but it was exactly what I wanted on this night. The nose was black as pitch; actually, you may have found notes of pitch buried beneath its wealth of black currant, haunting floral tones, brown sugar, savory spices and tobacco. On the palate, it displayed a series of textural waves that moved the senses, all kept in check by brisk acidity and notes of dried dark fruits and savory herbs. It finished with a display of youthful tannin, earth and inner floral tones. (93 points)
1995 Château Palmer – This is in a wonderful place right now, displaying a dark yet vibrant nose of crushed black cherry, sweet herbs, cedar, smoke and tobacco. On the palate, I found lifted textures with perfectly resolved tannin, possibly decanted too long as a hint of oxidation creeped in, yet altogether beautiful, as dark fruits and tobacco came together along with inner floral and earth tones. It finished on a note of bitter black fruit and dried flowers. (93 points) at Morrell
2005 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou – The nose showed a mix of lush red fruits with sweet floral tones, gravel dust and brown spice. On the palate, it was unbelievably silky and refined, seeming to touch upon all the senses with fleshy dark red fruits and minerals, firming up on the finish, as its youthful tannins saturated the senses. What a beautiful showing, and it’s a wine that will likely continue to evolve for the next two decades. (95 points)
1995 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou – The ‘95 Beaucaillou didn’t show as well as I’d hoped on this night, with an intense dark fruit and sweet tobacco and floral bouquet that seemed to be missed the slight rusticity that I love in these wines. On the palate, I found rich, dense textures with dark red fruits, hints of spice and fine tannin. It finished medium-long on dried fruits. (92 points) at Morrell
1996 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande -The ‘96 Pichon showed a beautiful, mature bouquet with earth tones up front leading to crushed red fruit, dried flowers and spice. On the palate, I found saturating dark red fruits on broad and fleshy frame, as a bump of brisk acidity provided lift. It finished earthy yet fresh with hints of savory herbs and olive. (94 points)
2005 Château Mouton Rothschild – The nose showed an intense core of currant and black raspberry encased in a shroud of tobacco, cedar, spice and graphite. On the palate, it was center-focused with concentrated dark fruits and bitter herbs, as tannin clenched the senses. It finished structured, as tannin saturated the palate, and hints of mineral tinged dried fruits lingered. With everything going on in this glass, it’s almost impossible to imagine this wine at peak. That said, it’s balanced to the core and built like a bomb wanting to explode. (96 points)
1996 Château Mouton Rothschild – Talk about a perfectly mature first growth. The ‘96 Mouton was simply stunning, showing a bouquet of dark soil tones, sweet herbs and olives, then turning more exotic with dusty spice, minerals, smoke and crushed black currant. On the palate, I found intense dark fruits with massive textures that filled the senses and brisk acidity giving way to savory herbs, leather and inner floral tones. Fine tannin mounted on the palate but never seemed to get in the way, especially through its long dark fruit finish. (95 points)
I would also like to take a moment and shout out to Lafayette Grand Café & Bakery, whose service, cuisine and event space made for the absolutely perfect place to enjoy these great wines. This was an incredible evening, and much of that was due to their flawless execution.
Article, photos and tasting notes by: Eric Guido
When asked if I would be interested in attending a ten-year retrospective of Terre Nere, my response was a resounding YES! For me, Terre Nere represents something more than just the sum of its already-impressive parts. Those parts being the location, winemaker, and pioneering methodologies. What Terre Nere represents to me is coming full circle with Sicilian wine and the impetus behind Mount Etna’s rise to the world’s stage.
When i think back to over ten years ago, you’d be hard pressed to find anyone willing to put an Etna wine against the world’s top regions. In fact, the general consensus about Sicily as a whole was that they were trying hard–but failing. That all changed because of Terre Nere. Yes, there were many great wineries before them, and a number of pioneers placed stakes and made moves on Etna. However, Terre Nere was the property that broke out of the Sicilian wine category and put Mount Etna on the map.
Much of this is the result of its owner, Marco di Grazia, whose unrelenting passion for Italian wine guided him to become one of the most famous exporters and innovators in the world. You see, Marco didn’t just discover producers to propel to international fame; he literally guided them to create a product that the world’s wine consumers wanted at the time. The list of Italian properties whose names are staples in the industry today may never have arrived if it wasn’t for this man.
So you can imagine that, when the time came that he wanted to buy vineyards and start his own winery, the entire industry waited with bated breath to hear where Marco di Grazia’s new project would be started. When the news came that it was on Mount Etna, an unproven and volatile region of Sicily, many people scratched the heads in wonder. What did he see in this region? Why would someone want to make wine on the side of an active volcano? Little did they know the level of success that would follow.
In truth, what Marco had done in creating Terre Nere was use the same skill set that helped him succeed as an exporter; he literally saw the potential in something that others missed. On Mount Etna, he found vineyards filled with ancient vines, complex soils, diverse climates and a myriad of possible expressions from a native variety that had the potential to make great wine: Nerello Macalase.
Instead of creating one wine, the choice was made to separate each vineyard parcel to express the diverse terroir of the region. With the majority of his holdings on the Northern side of Mount Etna, Terre Nere began its production with the 2002 vintage. In the grand scheme of things, success came quickly, as my first introduction to the brand was with the 2005 vintage, and already the industry was buzzing about the amazing wines then coming from Mount Etna.
So here I was, over ten years later, and in front me stood a ten-year retrospective, which was followed by a focused tasting of the ‘12 and ‘13 vintages. What was even more amazing was when Marco explained that he had never had the opportunity to taste so many vintages back-to-back, hence it would be an exploration for all of us.
A few of my general impressions:
Two of the questions I had always had regarding Terre Nere was how well they would age and what the drinking window would be on the average bottle. One of the best descriptions I can give to explain these wines and the variety to a newcomer is that they fall somewhere between the expressions and structures of Barolo and Burgundy. Each time I’ve tasted them through the years, I would wonder how the tannin would resolve and what would be waiting on the other side of the aging curve.
Vintage variations aside, I would say that a general guideline would be to wait between 6 – 8 years before they enter their early maturity. This was seen with the ‘08, ‘07 and ‘05 vintages (with 2006 still needing some time to soften).
As for the different vineyard designations, three now stand out to me the most. First is the Santo Spirito, for its early appeal, allure and elegance. Then there’s Calderara Sottana, with its layers of dark fruit, earth and classic structure. Lastly, the Prephylloxera, as it is a wine of such balance and elegance while remaining wild and savage. These three designations have formed my holy trinity of Terre Nere, but don’t sleep of the rest of the lineup. Guardiola, a vineyard at a steep, 30-degree incline, which sits adjacent to Santo Spirito but at higher elevation, is something of a perfect marriage between elegance and structure, while Feudo di Mezzo seems to be the most balanced and consistent wine of the group.
My thoughts on vintages after hearing Marco’s commentary:
- 2014 was an unusual vintage of ups and down, yet with excellent results and producing alluring yet perfectly balanced and structured wines.
- 2013 was difficult as it was wet and unusually cool through the fall. The wines are enjoyable today, but they lack the stamina found in better vintages.
- 2012 was a dry, warm vintage that produced tiny grapes with thick skins. However, these wines showed enough structure to hold their ripe fruit firmly. They show beautifully with plenty of cellar potential.
- 2011 was considered a classic, near-perfect vintage. Dry winter, mild spring, warm summer and perfectly timed rain in September led to an ideal harvest. Classic is the word here, as the wines I’ve tasted are of excellent quality with cellar potential.
- 2010 was off to a good start with an equally beneficial summer, but ups and downs into the fall disturbed ripening. My only example to go by was the Prepylloxera, which show ethereal weightlessness. The jury is still out.
- 2009 was a difficult vintage defined by a harsh winter, short summer and rainy harvest. The Guardiola was a prime example, being my least favorite of the flight with lean fruit and over-accentuated tannin.
- 2008 had some irregular weather, including hail, yet resulted in a late ripening and ultimately beautiful vintage. Warm weather into the fall pushed ripeness to the limits, yet the Santo Spirito still showed very balanced. Past experiences have also been very positive, and I’d keep my eyes out for well-stored bottles to snatch up.
- 2007 (Limited comments from Marco)–I would say this was a riper vintage, and the wine is ready now. I admit to checking wine-searcher for more 2007s immediately after this tasting.
- 2006 (Limited comments from Marco)–Still structured but with the fruit to carry it for many more years.
- 2005 (Limited comments from Marco)–Balanced, pretty, elegant and ready to drink today. Keep an eye out for well-stored ‘05s.
On to the tasting notes (by vintage):
2014 Terre Nere Calderara Sottana Bianco – This had a rich and robust nose, with ripe apple, peach, smoke, hints of tropical fruits, even banana. It was then freshened by minerals and florals with a hint of lemon zest. On the palate, a silky veil of ripe stone fruit covered the senses, providing a pleasing feel, as hints of minerals and inner floral tones set in. This finish displayed a buzz of vibrant acidity with hints of lime and stone lingering long. (93 points) at Morrell
2014 Terre Nere Prephylloxera Vigna di Don Peppino – This showed an intense, exotic and deeply-layered nose, as savory cherry gave way to notes of charred meat and Indian spice before it turned fresh and invigorating with spiced citrus and wild herbs. On the palate, I found rich, intense yet silky textures, with savory cherry and spice giving way to sweet herbs and a hint of citrus. Is it grapefruit and brown spices or dried orange? It’s hard to tell, but the results are stunning. The finish was lifted and long with sweet tannin coating the senses, as notes of sour cherry and orange peel lingered long. This is drop-dead gorgeous–a truly wild yet elegant wine. (97 points) at Morrell
2013 Terre Nere Prephylloxera Vigna di Don Peppino – This was a wine of beautiful contrasts, as intense spiced cherry was offset by soaring floral aromatics, smoke and black earth, in an exotic yet nuanced expression. On the palate, it was lifted and ethereal while saturating the senses with sweet tannin-wrapped black cherry, sweet tobacco and herbs. The finish was floral with fresh red fruit and minerals, yet its tannic clout lingered on. The ’14 may be a step up, but the ’13 is pure class. (94 points)
2013 Terre Nere Santo Spirito – The nose displayed dusty cherry and spice, with smoke-tinged minerality giving way to sweet tea and floral tones. On the palate, vibrant acidity mixed with silky tannin, providing a grippy sensation, as notes of cherry and sweet tea permeated the senses. It finished with dried red fruits and inner floral tones. The 2013 is remarkably youthful, feminine and perfumed. (91 points) at Morrell
2013 Terre Nere Calderara Sottana – What a tremendous bouquet, showing olive and earth up front, followed by rich and massive wave of black cherry, currant and spice with hints of undergrowth. On the palate, it was soft and caressing, displaying ripe cherry and strawberry in a pliant and positively satiating experience. It finished with medium length, as its fruit tapered off and left the mouth watering. This wine was a gentle giant. (92 points)
2013 Terre Nere Feudo di Mezzo – The nose was rich, showing black cherry and herbs with crushed stone minerality. On the palate, I found a mix of tart cherry and strawberry, which seemed to morph into an intense and saturating note of pomegranate, yet through it all a wave of brisk acidity provided a liveliness and mouthwatering experience. It finished with medium-length, displaying hints of wild berry and a twang of lively acidity. (92 points)
2012 Terre Nere Feudo di Mezzo – What a gorgeous wine. The nose was dark and brooding with crushed stone and black earth up front. Dried raspberry came forward with time in the glass, along with dry cocoa and flowers. On the palate, it was silky with acid-driven vibrancy to its tart cherry and spice. It turned floral and mineral-like through the finish with a long and lingering note of sweet tea and smoke. This is so enjoyable today for its pliancy and richness on the palate, yet there’s a lurking structure beneath that is sure to carry it for many years (like Volnay). (93 points)
2012 Terre Nere Calderara Sottana – If I had to pick one wine from these recent tastings to put in my cellar today, this would be it. The 2012 Calderara Sottana was deep, rich, and vibrant. On the nose, I found dark earth, ripe black cherry, crushed raspberry, sweet herbs, dusty spice and minerals. On the palate, silky textures were contrasted by sweet tannin-laced black cherry, spice, cocoa and saline-minerality. It coated the senses throughout the finish with concentrated cherry and pomegranate, while hints of tannin lingered on. Wow! (95 points)
2012 Terre Nere Santo Spirito – The nose was intense and alluring, displaying crushed stone up front, then opening to reveal spiced cherry, dusty floral tones, a hint of herbs and green olive. On the palate, I found soft textures, which were contrasted by a core of spice and tannin-wrapped cherry fruit. Like a freight train speeding along a track, the fruit component seemed unstoppable and center-focused, saturating the senses. It finished on lingering spice, sweet tannin and a coating of concentrated dried cherry. I can only imagine that the future is very bright for the 2012 Santo Spirito. (94 points) at Morrell
2011 Terre Nere Calderara Sottana – The nose was tense and deeply pitched, showing red currant and brown spice, contrasted by pretty floral tones and crushed stone. On the palate, silky textures were contrasted by a mix of minerals, spice, and tart cherry, then seemingly turning to ripe strawberry. It finished remarkably long on sweat tea leaves, spice and a hint of citrus. The ‘11 Calderara Sottana is a pleasure on the palate for its remarkably silky yet refined and elegant expression (all stone and rock soil mixed with black pumice). (95 points)
2010 Terre Nere Prephylloxera Vigna di Don Peppino – The nose was intense, giving and remarkably pretty, displaying sweet herbs and spice up front, giving way to rosy floral tones, a hint of red pepper, and bright cherry. On the palate, it was finessed and pretty with light cherry and inner floral tones This relies on beauty over power and comes across as quite classic. The mouth watered throughout the finish, as a coating of sweet tannin lingered along with citrus-tinged spice. (93 points)
2009 Terre Nere Guardiola – The nose showed dark fruits with hints of dried cherry and crushed raspberry, giving way to saline minerality and savory herbs. It was tense on the palate, as vibrant acid provided a buzz on the palate that resolved into saturating cherry fruit and herbal tones. Savory cherry remained through the finish, along with a coating of gruff tannin. (90 points)
2008 Terre Nere Santo Spirito – The nose started restrained, showing dried cherry and minerals, yet it opened dramatically in the glass, as hints of potpourri and exotic spice filled the glass. On the palate, I found silky textures with intense, densely-concentrated red fruit, which seemed to be wrapped in a mix of spice and sweet tannin. It finished on finesse and was quite pretty with dried red fruits and inner floral tones. (94 points)
2007 Terre Nere Calderara Sottana – The nose showed dark, brooding fruit with savory herbs and brown autumn spice, ultimately very pretty and finessed while adding a note of dried flowers. On the palate, I found silky, alluring textures with black cherry, strawberry fruit and sweet spice that seemed to coat the senses. It finished long, long, long on fresh cherry pits and minerality. This is so beautiful today, both focused and intense, yet ready to enjoy. There may be the slightest hint of heat on the finish, but it is an undeniably beautiful wine. (95 points)
2006 Terre Nere Guardiola – The nose was dark yet quite closed, showing plums, dark spice, crushed stone, black earth, and wax. It was angular on the palate yet still fresh, with notes of bright cherry and softening textures over time. It finished long on candied cherry, inner floral tones, and minerals. This still needs a few more years to truly come together, but it is already enjoyable. (92 points)
2005 Terre Nere Feudo di Mezzo – The nose was pretty and finessed, showing spice-tinged cherry and minerals, along with dusty dried flowers. On the palate, I found a finessed and lifted wine with notes of dried cherry and inner floral tones. It was very pretty on the finish with a mix of tart cherry and minerals. This is ready to enjoy today. It’s vibrant through balanced acidity with perfectly resolved tannin and beautifully pure fruit. (93 points)
Article, Photos and Tasting Notes by: Eric Guido
I remember the early days of my exploration into Italian wine, and to this day, it’s interesting to think about the effect it had on me. You see, I was very new to wine at the time. Don’t get me wrong, I had delved into wines that were well-branded and known by the average consumer, but beyond having a belief that wines I didn’t enjoy were the result of my unrefined palate–instead of the possibility that they were simply poor wines (a common misconception)–all I really knew were names.
I tried them all, yet often didn’t understand what I was tasting. Rioja, Chianti, Burgundy, Barolo and Bordeaux all sat on my table at one time or another. Then came my real introduction to wine in Culinary School, and everything changed. I found so much to like in the wines that were poured for me that I decided to go on my own vinous exploration, and having heard that Italy was one of the most complex countries to understand–that’s where I decided to start. In my mind, mastering the most complex wine-producing country would only make it easier to understand the rest of the world.
What I didn’t expect was that I would develop an undying love for Italian wine that has lasted since those early days. Why did this happen? It’s simple. It’s because Italy not only has a seemingly unending rollcall of their own varieties and expressions, they have also come close to mastering many of the world’s greatest wine styles and international varieties.
That brings me to the Super Tuscan movement, which is today a very hard category to define, but at one time had been best understood as Italy’s attempt to compete with Bordeaux. Let’s put Sangiovese and the Chianti wars aside for a moment and focus on Bolgheri, the Tuscan coast, and what is in my opinion the First Growth Bordeaux of Italy–I’m speaking about Ornellaia.
Although Sassicaia still receives more attention from collectors and auction houses to this day, and lays claim to be the impetus of the Super Tuscan movement, It was Ornellaia who came onto the scene with an image, a sense of style, and the ability to create a brand or name that would outgrow the moniker of Super Tuscan. For Sassicaia, this happened much on its own momentum, yet Ornellaia was a force to be reckoned with, and today, works hard to improve upon their goal of perfection.
Founded by the Marchese Lodovico Antinori, Ornellaia released its first wine with the 1985 vintage. These weren’t lands that had been used for vine-growing in the past, but instead a well-planned development of vineyards with the intention of harnessing the terroir that Sassicaia had already proven capable of successfully growing Bordeaux varieties. So determined to compete with Bordeaux as they were, famed oenologist Michel Rolland was brought in early to help the estate realize its aspirations.
When tasting these early wines, you can see the potential that the winemakers were faced with, even though they were going through a time of exploration and experimentation. Looking at the ‘95 vintage, the wine it produced is a perfect example, as this was not a great vintage for the region, and yet the wine is glorious to this day.
In an average year, Ornellaia is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, but in varying percentages depending on the vintage. Techniques have certainly changed since those early days, as has the winemaker, and yet as Ornellaia evolves, it is remarkable to taste across vintages, because the real secret behind its success is terroir.
Today, Ornellaia is owned by Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi (as of 2005), with a winemaker who has earned his own fame, Axel Heinz. What Axel brought to the picture was a more refined approach and the willingness to allow the wine to firmly express its Tuscan terroir. Other major advancements in the brand included the creation of both a second and third wine. The Le Serre Nuove now uses the fruit that doesn’t make the cut for Ornellaia and has become a wine of some renown in its own right. This further refinement and selection of fruit has resulted in an even more focused and esteemed expression for the company’s flagship wine, Ornellaia.
No expense is spared, just as any first growth in Bordeaux would boast, and the methods rely fully on a strict adherence to excellence, which is seen in the vineyards and the winery. Hand-picking and tending each block of the vineyards separately not only starts in the vineyard but is also followed throughout the vinification process, as parcels are crushed, macerated, fermented and aged for the first year before blending begins.
What this means for the consumer and fans of Le Serre Nuove is that even Ornellaia’s second wine is given the same attention as their flagship all the way through the winemaking process. In the end, the proof is in the bottle, and with each vintage, whether it’s cool, cold or warm, Ornellaia emerges as the pinnacle of what the Bolgheri hills can produce.
It’s also important the recognize the variation between the Tuscan coast and the rest of the region. Here, warm vintages and cold are both moderated by maritime influences. As seen with the 2002 vintage, strict selection returned a wine that is drinking beautifully today. Michel Rolland admits that the owners at the time were quite displeased with the amount of fruit he dropped in hope of creating a great wine in a vintage that most other producers were lucky to produce anything worth drinking at all. Yet that is exactly what sets Ornellaia apart from all the rest–the pursuit of excellence.
With the new release of the 2013 vintage, we can see that even after changing ownership three times over, and with a completely different winemaker at the helm, this is a wine that truly deserves the standing of Tuscany’s First Growth.
Nowhere else is this more evident than in a vintage retrospective that spans nearly twenty years of Ornellaia, the likes of which I was lucky enough to experience first-hand (detailed below). The final result was the conclusion that Ornellaia is as important a wine as any in the world. We will be drinking these vintages for 20 to 30 years, and I’m fully confident that auction markets will sooner or later catch on.
So without further ado, on to the tasting notes:
2013 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia – The nose was youthfully compact, displaying red currant, dusty spice, and minerals, along with a hint of bell pepper. On the palate, it opened with silky textures turning to concentrated tart cherry and cranberry fruit which seemed to grip and saturate the senses with a coating of fine tannin. The long, structured finish was center-focused and lean with hints of bitter herbs lingering. (93 points) find it at Morrell
2012 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia – The nose was elegant, expressing cool red toned fruit, as well as black currant, hints of cola and a beautiful perfume of herbal mint with hints of tobacco leaf. On the palate, it was silky-smooth, yet quite closed, showing dark weighty textures which nearly masked its fine-grained tannin. Flavors of tart red berry with a hint of herbs lingered long into the finish. This is a very pretty expression of Ornellaia, in need of time in the cellar for the palate to catch up to the bouquet, and may warrant a higher score down the road. (94 points) find it at Morrell
2010 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia – The nose showed cherry and floral undergrowth in an elegant and lifted expression. With time in the glass, notes of plum came forward, along with spice and savory herbs. On the palate, I found tart cherry on a medium-bodied frame with hints of minerals, yet ultimately lean in its expression. The finish showed dried strawberry and hints of lingering tannin. (93 points)
2009 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia – The nose was densely packed with black currant, blackberry, and plum with hints of herbs and orange peel. On the palate, it was rich and youthful with black fruits and dark chocolate but lacking depth. The finish was long, showing silky structure with lingering blackberries and dark chocolate. This may not be one of the great vintages for Ornellaia, but there’s no denying how enjoyable it is today. (92 points)
2007 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia – The nose was dark and intense, showing crushed black cherry, dusty spice, plum sauce and hints of sawdust. On the palate, I found rich, silky textures with notes of ripe red fruits, tobacco and sweet herbs, turning savory toward the back palate, as hints of tannin and vibrant acidity contrasted. The finish lingered long, showing a mix of cherry, plum and spice. The 2007 is in a great place right now and still has many years of development ahead. (95 points)
2005 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia – The 2005 Ornellaia is in a wonderful place right now, displaying a dark yet vibrant nose of muddled red fruits (cherry, raspberry and strawberry), giving way to tobacco and floral undergrowth. On the palate, silky, soft textures ushered in a mix of black cherry and dusty spice, along with pretty inner floral tones. Hints of tannin were still present on the long finish, yet the emergence of dried strawberry and earthy minerals provided a perfect counter-balance. The 2005 is on the verge of peaking. (94 points)
2004 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia – The nose was elegant and refined with intense aromas of crushed raspberry, black currant, and tobacco with hints of smoke and spice box. On the palate, I found silky textures over a tannic spine, providing a wonderfully classic feel with resonating notes of wild berry, herbs and tobacco. The finish revealed its still-youthful state with a coating of refined sweet tannin across the senses providing measured grip. This is a gorgeous, classic Ornellaia. (97 points)
2002 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia – Sometimes lightning does strike twice–I tasted the 2002 Ornellaia last year, a wine I didn’t expect to be impressed by, and here we are again. The nose on the 2002 is giving and alluring with pretty floral tones up front, followed by sweet cherry, apple, and with time, turning savory and spicy. On the palate, I found silky, soft textures with notes of rich cherry sauce, plum, currant, and sweet spice. The finish was long and soft with a lasting impression of ripe red fruits and fig. Is there a hint of heat? Maybe just a little; but still, it is just stunning. (93 points)
1995 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia – The ‘95 Ornellaia is perfectly matured and giving at this stage of its life. Here I found notes of savory roasted meats, undergrowth, dried cherry and flowers, fall leaves, and hints of spice. It caressed the palate with notes of dried red fruits, minerals and inner floral tones, as hints of tannin and acidity mingled. The finish was refined and long, showing dusty spice, dried strawberry and earthy florals. This was a beautifully elegant and mature showing, and it was enjoyable in every way. (93 points)
Article, photos and tasting notes by: Eric Guido
Taking lunch at Gotham Bar and Grill with Cyril Chappellet, of the historic Chappellet winery, is an experience I will not soon forget. As Napa Valley is always in a state of flux, it’s refreshing to hear the words of a man whose family has been entrenched in the industry for almost 50 years. In fact, Cyril’s experience in Napa started as a small boy, when his parents Donn and Molly decided to plant the Valley’s first high-elevation vineyard on Pritchard Hill. It’s a winery that watched today’s Napa Valley grow up around it.
Imagine, if you will, being raised up in such an environment and witnessing the entire industry morph over the course of decades. Today, the hillside and mountain top vineyards in Napa Valley are all the rage, yet the Chappellet family was producing a prestigious portfolio of wines long before our modern-day critics became keen to the location. Thinking back to only ten years ago, it was seldom said that terroir mattered. Yet the Chappellet family now works with what is considered a Grand Cru of the region, and they do it with class. All of the vineyards are managed through strict organic practices, and of all the families holdings, only 16% of their land is used as vineyards, while the rest remains uncultivated.
It seems to me that they manage themselves as custodians of old-school Napa ideals and values, while always keeping an eye on the future. Chappellet is now neighbors with some of the biggest names in the region, yet in the grand scheme of things, their prices remain remarkably fair. The style is not of the rich, ripe giants of the valley, or the over-restrained. Instead, they aim for balance, elegance and a wine that will only improve with maturity. These wines exude class, and their popularity only confirms what this family has always understood yet humbly refused to boast–Chappellet is one of the top producers of the region.
While most consumers look immediately to the high-scoring Signature or Pritchard Hill Cabernets, it’s wines like the Chenin Blanc that tell a deeper story and show a commitment to the land. This is a wine whose fruit is sourced from Pritchard Hill, a prestigious terroir and location that could easily be used to plant more Cabernet and increase production of their flagship bottling. Instead, Chappellet thumbs their nose at the idea of tearing these vines up. As a result, the Chenin Blanc is one of those special kind of wines from Napa Valley that we seldom see, and it offers a tremendous experience.
Yet there’s also a lot to be said for value, which is another Chappellet ideal. The Signature Cabernet Sauvignon is not to be confused as second wine, as the majority of its fruit is sourced from the Pritchard Hill vineyards, with the balance coming from trusted local growers. In its price point, you can’t beat the quality–and that speaks volumes to their commitment to both the land and their customers.
And so, as I taste with the humble, witty and insightful Cyril, I can’t help but think about how hard it is to decide what’s more interesting–the conversation or the wines in front of me. I guess great wine really does come from great people, and the Chappellets are a perfect example. If you don’t already know them, then allow me to make the introduction.
On to the tasting notes:
2012 Chappellet Cabernet Sauvignon Pritchard Hill Estate Vineyard – The nose showed dark, mineral-tinged blackberry fruit, tobacco, exotic spice, and a hint of black licorice. On the palate, I found dense, weighty textures infused with fine tannin, as rich dark fruits fought for supremacy. It finished long on grippy tannin with tart, saturating black fruit, dark chocolate and spice. There is so much going on here, yet the wine is 5-10-years away from its drinking window. Bury it deep. (95 points)
2013 Chappellet Signature Cabernet Sauvignon – The nose showed a mix of dark red fruits and minerals offset by hints of vanilla, cocoa and clove. On the palate, it displayed silky textures with impeccable balance, showing red and black berries, spice and fine grain tannin that provided perfect grip. The finish was wonderfully long with a mix of red currant, spice, sweet herbs, and palate-coating tannin. A hint of blackberry bitterness lingered. The 2013 Signature was stunning today, but it should be even better in five years’ time. (93 points)
2012 Chappellet Cabernet Franc – The nose showed ripe blackberry and mineral-infused cherry, sweet herbs and earth tones. On the palate, silky rich textures hosted a mix of dark red and black fruits in a vibrant, balanced, yet dense effort. It finished beautifully long on saturating fruits, dark chocolate, sweet herbs and a hint of tannic grip. (92 points)
2013 Chappellet Chenin Blanc – The nose was highly expressive with ripe tropical fruits up front, sweet herbs, crushed stone, banana and exotic floral tones. On the palate, it was ripe yet unbelievably fresh with notes of mango and citrus saturating the senses along with fleshy textures which seemed more like nectar than wine. The finish was long, palate-coating, yet fresh, with hints of banana and sweet lemon. To think that this is all neutral wood is amazing. This is just pure Napa Chenin Blanc. (92 points) Find it at Morrell
2013 Chappellet Chardonnay Signature – This showed a stunning and unique bouquet of savory herbs and hints of olive up front, followed by ripe peach and pear. There was an exotic richness on the nose that kept me coming back to the glass. On the palate, I found smooth and pliant textures with notes of sweet herbs, ripe apple, kiwi and minerals. The finish was staying with hints of young peach and a lingering kiss of sweetness. (91 points)
2013 Chappellet Mountain Cuvée – The nose was generous, but not overdone, with ripe red fruit, currant and blackberry giving was to savory herbs. On the palate, I found silky textures with red berry and blueberry fruit, sweet herbs, spice, and hints of tobacco. It was wonderfully juicy and vibrant while maintaining fleshy contours and finishing fresh with red berry fruits. This is a tremendous value for Napa Cabernet. (91 points)
Article and Tasting Notes by: Eric Guido
I must also pay tribute to Gotham Bar and Grill for their absolutely amazing meal and presentation. It’s not often that a meal leaves an impression during such an amazing tasting. However, this one had me talking about it for the rest of the day. I’m looking forward to returning soon.
It’s been a long road for Austrian wine, as one of the most dynamic, informative and constant marketing campaigns that I have ever witnessed continues to push strong against misinformation and bad reputations of the past. Don’t get me wrong; you shouldn’t feel bad for Austria, as its reputation in the United States and beyond continues to grow by leaps and bounds. However, what’s amazing to me is how often I run into groups of wine lovers who are not so sure what Austrian wine is about, if it’s any good, or what to expect.
I suppose I’ve decided that it’s about time I did my part to make a stand and place onto these pages my affirmation that I am a true lover of Austrian wine and believe that they are world-class in every way. Granted, we are currently talking about an entire nation and its wine production. So in the spirit of keeping my love-rant under 2000 words, let’s focus on just one region within Austria, and that’s my favorite: the Wachau (pronounced Va – cow).
But first, let’s get the history part out of the way, because the fact is that Austria has a deep attachment to the vine, and a few key moments in that history’s development sheds light on a number of strengths and weaknesses within the region–so here it goes.
History tells us that early cultivation of vines for grape production dates back to 700 B.C., yet it was the Romans who brought organized viticulture to the river Danube nearly 700 years later. Wine production flourished and continued even as the Romans withdrew from the region. However, between the 10th and 12th century, the Cistercian order (a group of monks who left Burgundy in search of a simpler life of serving God without profit) began to introduce Burgundian vine-growing and winemaking techniques to the region, along with the Bavarians, who began building the trellis along the river Danube, which makes today’s modern wine industry possible. Austria flourished as a wine-producing nation, with nearly three times the amount of today’s production through the 15th and 16th century. These vast vineyards along the Danube stretched from Vienna to the borders of Germany.
Wine production continued to be a major resource for Austria, yet it suffered severely (as did the rest of Europe) during the outbreak of phylloxera. The industry saw another major setback in the early 20th century, as power changed hands with the coming of the first World War. However, through it all, the industry continued to plow forward. Then in 1985, Austrian wine saw its modern demise, as a group of Austrian winemakers were found to be adding diethylene glycol (an additive you often find in antifreeze) to their large production tank wines.
As horrible as this was for Austrian wine as a whole, the fact is that today’s industry and the level of fine wine produced in the country may not exist if it wasn’t for this one unforgettable moment in history. It is believed that Austria now upholds more stringent rules governing its wine production than any other nation through its DAC system (Districtus Austriae Controllatus).
This brings us back to the Wachau, as we near the end of our history lesson. Before the scandal in 1985 was even uncovered, a group of winemakers within the Wachau region were already hard at work creating their own set of rules and standards by which the region would govern its winemaking, and that is the Codex Wachau. Some of today’s most famous producers had a hand in creating this set of rules, which employs rigorous standards and a focus on each individual varietal and the terroir which works best for it. It’s because of these standards and the producers who created and upheld them that the Wachau is now one of the world’s leading producers of fine wine.
So makes the Wachau so special? The Wachau is something of a perfect storm for the creation of fine wine. Over the course of millennia, the river Danube cut its way through a complex mix of ancient rock to create a winding valley. Through time, this rock was covered with a mixture of Loess, which is a windblown silt made up of clay and sand. Nearer to the river, these deposits formed a mineral rich soil for Austria’s favorite white variety, Gruner Veltliner. On the steep terraced cliffs, the Loess exist in a much thinner layer over hard granite, gneiss, marble and quartz. These locations are ideal for growing Riesling. Yet it’s also the confluence of four major climatic zones that mix within the valley walls. These are cold winds from the north, warm Pannonian influences and from the east, cool Atlantic from the west, and temperate Mediterranean from the south. When you add their harsh winters, hot summers, and the moderating influences of the Danube river, you have one of the most interesting and complex terroir you could ever hope to find.
So why are we still working so hard to introduce the world to Austrian wine?
For one thing, their largest production is in Gruner Veltliner, a grape that isn’t on the average American’s radar, which is a shame. This amazing grape not only impresses the white wine drinker with it’s minerality, balanced acidity and unique peppery bouquet, but it also scores points with red wine lovers for its rich, weighty, yet still perfectly-balanced performance on the palate. What’s more, as you move up the scale from table wine to fine wine, Gruner can be downright tropical and savory all at the same time. It’s a stunning mix. Plus, Gruner Veltliner happens to be one of the most dynamic wines to pair with nearly any kind of cuisine.
Then there’s Riesling, the Wachau’s second largest-production grape. Now I’m not quoting any scientific data; yet in my experience, if you poll twenty average American wine drinkers about Riesling, 19 of them will tell you that they don’t drink Riesling because it’s sweet. This one piece of misinformation has done as much harm for Riesling in this country as the movie Sideways did for Merlot. It’s time to get over this misconception. Riesling from Austria (and to a large part Germany as well) is not made in a sweet style. There are off-dry styles of Riesling, but you need not worry about finding one in an Austrian wine selection unless you are specifically looking for it. Instead, you’ll find mineral-laden wines with ripe stone fruits and zesty acidity.
However, the greatest asset that the Wachau has is actually its producers. Names such as Prager, Hirtzberger, F.X. Pichler, Knoll, and Alzinger all stand for a level of quality and consistency that is unreal. The question is not if you’ll find a great wine from this group of producers. The question is, how will you pick from all of the great wines they produce? The simplest explanation I can volunteer is this: F.X. Pichler is an intense, ripe and rich wine that somehow remains remarkably balanced. Knoll is the old world classic; tradition is what matters here, and the wines show it. Hirtzberger walks the traditional path, yet there’s an intense vibrancy that lends these wines a level of verve seldom found in Gruner. Prager is all about intensity, minerality and the ability to age for decades. Alzinger thrives on clarity and precision, sourcing fruit from a number of the most prestigious vineyards and turning out wines that are transparent to terroir.
As I had mentioned with Prager, the wines do age beautifully, and in the case of Pregar, they really do require some time to come together. However, you don’t need to put the majority of these in the cellar to properly enjoy them. In the end, all of these producers are turning out age-worthy wine (another characteristic of Gruner and Riesling); however the majority of them are just as enjoyable young.
For my taste, as a lover of intense wines with the ability to age, I often look to the Smaragd classification, which is a wine made from their best vineyards and selection fruit picked at optimal ripeness. However, there is a lot to like in the classifications of Steinfeder (easy-drinking, great for pairing with food and affordable) and Federspiel (a baby step below their best Smaragd bottling).
In closing, I’ve listed a number of my favorite bottles and tasting experiences below. I sincerely hope that I’ve done my part to show you that Austria is not only worth your attention, but also that the wines deserve a place on your table and in your cellars.
2011 Franz Hirtzberger Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Honivogl – Alzinger Honivogl is firing on all cylinders. Rich, ripe, savory and fresh all at the same time. On the nose, I found green apple contrasting ripe mango with savory herbs and crushed stone minerality. It was unbelievably soft on the palette yet also lively and fresh. Ripe tropical fruits and inner floral tones were offset by a zing of vibrant acidity. On the finish, I found tart stone fruit and minerals. Wow! (94 points) Find it at Morrell
2011 Prager Grüner Veltliner Stockkultur Smaragd Achleiten – The nose was at first floral with undergrowth and limestone, leading to rich peach, which filled the senses with a slight effervescence. On the palate, it was gorgeous with ripe stone fruits saturating the senses and oily textures offset by balanced acidity. The finish was long and seemed to melt from the senses, revealing a beautiful refreshing character. (93 points)
2014 Weingut Knoll Gruner Veltliner Smaragd Ried Schütt – This was classic Knoll to the core. The nose was exuberant and peppery with green apple, minerals, moist soil and fresh floral tones. It caressed the palate and excited the senses while delivering masses of ripe apple, spice and inner floral perfumes. It finished on minerals with a twang of tart acidity and spice. (91 points)
2014 Alzinger Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Loibner Frauenweingarten – The nose was very pretty with notes of apricot, apple, lime and wet stone. On the palate, a bitter citrus note gave way to inner florals and green apple. It finished on crushed stone minerality with a tug of acidity. This was lighter than expected yet very enjoyable all the same. (89 points)
2013 Weingut Knoll Riesling Smaragd Ried Schütt – The nose showed pretty spiced floral perfumes, ripe apple and pear, sweet cream, brie rind and crushed stone. On the palate, I found dense textures contrasted by zesty acidity ushering in flavors of lemon rind, grapefruit, and mango with intense minerality, which seemed to saturate the senses. Caking layers of minerals, kiwi, tart citrus and hints of botrytis lingered long on the finish. This is balanced to the core and quite enjoyable. (93 points) Find it at Morrell
2013 Alzinger Riesling Smaragd Loibenberg – This was a wild ride with a rich bouquet of yellow flowers, apricot, spiced apple, smoke and hints of roasted nut. On the palate, I found medium weight matched by brisk acidity, leading with a note of ripe cheese, yet quickly changing to lime, green apple, and tart citrus. It finished incredibly fresh and mouthwatering with lingering citrus rind and hints of undergrowth—a wild ride indeed. (93 points) Find it at Morrell
2011 Franz Hirtzberger Riesling Smaragd Singerriedel – The nose was racy and intense, showing spicy floral notes, rich lemon curd and a whiff of sweet herbs. On the palate, it was rich and juicy yet muscular in its youthful state, with notes of ripe peach, lemon pith and minerals. Throughout the finish, the palate remained saturated with peach and hint of mineral-tinged tropical fruit. (95 points) Find it at Morrell
2011 F.X. Pichler Riesling Reserve ‘M’ – This was intense and fruity on the nose with ripe tropical fruits, sweet, spicy floral tones, and a contrasting hint of bitter lemon rind. On the palate, it was rich yet balanced, showing ripe peach, grapefruit, wet slate and minerals. Spiced peach and lemon zest lingered on the finish, closing the experience with a fresh and clean note. Very Nice! (94 points) Find it at Morrell
Article and Tasting Notes by: Eric Guido
Produttori del Barbaresco has often been called the greatest value in age-worthy wine. For the longest time, there was no contest to this statement. However, today the wines continue to go up in price and rarity. That said, Produttori Riservas remain great values, but the days of being able to buy deeply and widely are gone. Now the wines of Produttori are highly allocated, more like a rare Burgundy than Barbaresco, and if you’re not paying attention, it’s easy to miss them.
Then there’s the question of vintage, of what is the deciding factor as to why Produttori will make Riservas in one year and not in another. For the longest time, collectors (myself included) thought this was decided by the vintage being one that would benefit from extended aging, yet today we find ourselves tasting the forward 2011s. In reality, the Produttori is more concerned with creating a complete and balanced wine, with the Normale (sometimes called Le Torre) being their priority. Still, in 2011 we are faced with a set of Riservas unlike anything I’ve ever seen before.
Aldo Vacca, the Produttori’s managing director for over 25 years, says that 2011 reminds him of the 1990 vintage, which is an interesting comparison, mainly because most collectors thought the 1990s wouldn’t mature well—but, in fact, they did. That said, it’s hard to ignore that the majority of 2011 Riservas that I’ve tasted are so enjoyable today, and it’s hard to imagine waiting. Their primary fruit is utterly gorgeous and with enough grip and balance to remind you that this is a wine made from Nebbiolo.
For those of you who want to put a wine away in this vintage, my pick would be Montestefano in a heartbeat. This is from one of the Produttoir’s most northerly vineyards, with cold winds coming down from the north. This influence was exactly what was necessary to combat the warmth of the vintage. It may be the most complete wine of the bunch. Having said that, there’s no denying the alluring and dark, yet slightly bitter richness of Rabaja. It may be to best young Rabaja I’ve ever tasted, but the question of how it will age is one that I’m afraid to broach. And then there’s Asili, the elegant beauty. I could go on and on, as there’s something to love about each of these wines.
As for the value of Produttori, I firmly believe they are well worth the hunt. In a classic vintage the Produttori is a sure bet for long-term cellaring and with a track record of great drinking for decades. As for a warm vintage, like 2011, they are so easy to like that it’s almost scary, and if Aldo Vacca is right about his comparison to 1990–then you will want to have these in the cellar. That said, if prices continue to rise, is there really any value in a very good-great Barbaresco, or will Produttori become lost in the shuffle? Only time will tell. And be warned, you have to keep your eyes open for these at retail, as the best wines are usually gone in a heartbeat.
On to the tasting notes: (In the order they were tasted)
Produttori Del Barbaresco Barbaresco Pora Riserva 2011 – The nose showed remarkably pretty floral tones followed by brilliant cherry fruit, herbs, and hints of minerals. On the palate, intense red fruits flooded the senses with a mix of cherry, strawberry, and cranberry. Soft textures gave way to hints of spice and sweet herbs in a very giving display for young Barbaresco. On the finish, I found red fruits along with pretty inner floral tones. (92 points)
Produttori Del Barbaresco Barbaresco Paje Riserva 2011 – The nose showed dark cherry, spice, hints of cedar and herbs in a deep and inviting display. On the palate, I found silky textures with sappy red fruits on a medium-bodied frame, with notes of savory herbs and bitters. It was center-focused with a dark persona leading to a palate-coating cherry sauce finish with caking minerality, and hints of fine tannin. (93 points) Find it at Morrell
Produttori Del Barbaresco Barbaresco Ovello Riserva 2011 – The nose showed minerals up front with rosy floral tones, and young red fruits. On the palate, I found soft, silky textures in a feminine display with tart red fruits and mounting tannin. The finish was long and quite pretty, showing pretty hard red candies with hints of contrasting tannin. (90 points)
Produttori Del Barbaresco Barbaresco Rio Sordo Riserva 2011 – The nose was wildly expressive with notes of medicinal cherry, cranberry, intense spice, dusty sweet floral tones and hints of undergrowth. On the palate, silky textures were quickly firmed up by youthful tannin in a dark and inward expression, showing bitter cherry and dark exotic spice. It finished on cranberry and palate-saturating tart cherry with lingering tannin. (93 points)
Produttori Del Barbaresco Barbaresco Asili Riserva 2011 – The bouquet on the ’11 Asili was gorgeous and truly elegant with a dark display of ripe black cherry, strawberry, savory herbs, minerals and undergrowth. On the palate, it was full-bodied with smooth textures, yet wonderfully focused in its cherry, minerals and spice. It’s a complete and balanced wine with structure to carry it for upwards of two decades. It finished on inner floral tones, herbs, tart cherry and palate-coating tannin. (94 points)
Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Rabaja Riserva 2011 – The nose was layered, intense and alluring in every way, as a dark mix of crushed black cherry, plum, savory herbs, and floral tones came together with earth and mineral tones to form a gorgeous and classic Rabaja bouquet. On the palate, I found full-bodied, silky textures with ripe red fruits and spice that seemed to coat the senses, as well as the wine’s fine tannin. The long, enveloping finish seemed to go on and on with notes of tart cherry, mint, and minerals. This was a hard glass to put down; it’s a dark beauty of a wine that transcends the vintage. (95 points)
Produttori Del Barbaresco Barbaresco Muncagota Riserva 2011 – The nose was highly expressive with mineral-infused cherry, plum, and hints of undergrowth. On the palate, silky textures were complemented by dark red fruits and spice in a broad and pliant expression of Nebbiolo. Young tannin coated the senses throughout the finish with hints of bitter cherry. (91 points)
Produttori Del Barbaresco Barbaresco Montefico Riserva 2011 – The ’11 Montefico came across as a wine of contrasts, being all at once lifted, yet intense. The nose seemed to draw me in, displaying a deep mix of crushed cherry, dark floral tones, and minerals. On the palate, I found silky textures, lifted by vibrant acidity and refined tannin, with notes of bright red fruit, herbs and inner floral tones. The finish was long, with saturating cherry, inner floral tones and fine tannin that coated the senses. This is a gorgeous Barbaresco for mid-term cellaring. (93 points) Find it at Morrell
Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Montestefano Riserva 2011 – The nose was beautifully layered and intense with deep red fruits, spice, minerals, rosy florals, and savory herbs. On the palate, it displayed silky textures contrasted by fine tannin with smoky spice, cherry, and minerals. There’s a tension here along with an inward feel that made me wonder what may be in store down the road. It finished on dark red fruits, sweet herbs and fine tannin. A classic in the making? I think there’s a good chance, as Montestefano performed more like young Barolo than Barbaresco. (94+ points) Find it at Morrell
Article, Photos, and Tasting Notes by: Eric Guido
The Produttori del Barbaresco selection at Morrell.
Like many others, I found my way to Châteauneuf-du-Pape through the words of Robert Parker, who seemed to be on a mission to propel the region and its wines to stardom. The results of his efforts put the village and its wines on the map for collectors around the globe. In fact, it is said that much of the region changed the entire style of their wines to fit his palate in hopes of achieving the Parker points that would secure their future. Whether or not this was a good thing is not for me to say.
However, what this phenomenon created was an entire generation of wine lovers who had to find their own way in a region where the top-scoring producers were often not the same people that made the wines that we actually loved to drink. Then there was the question of when to drink these wines, as we all hoped that the massively rich and ripe 100% Grenache style that was all the craze would one day settle and reveal some mystery to us all—somehow we are all still waiting. Lastly, there is the pricing, which has increased drastically. In a great vintage we can stomach it, yet the same pricing has made these wines prohibitive for daily drinking.
Don’t get me wrong; many wine lovers still enjoy the ripe style of vintages like 2007 and 2009, and just as many prefer 100% varietal Grenache. However, through much trial and error, I became a lover of a more traditional style of Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
What does traditional mean to me (because I’m sure someone will disagree)? For one thing, it’s the blend of various Rhone varieties, which adds a kaleidoscope of flavors and aromas but also makes for a more balanced wine throughout both cool and warm vintages. Next is the stems, as their addition to the fermentation process adds not just wild aromatic layers and depth, but also textural richness. And then there is the aging in cement or completely neutral oak barrels.
I’ve come to see this as the traditional formula, and you’d be surprised by how many producers follow these standards with their entry-level wines. You just need to be careful and follow either a trusted palate, or do the research before buying. In fact, these entry-level “traditional” wines are some of the best deals to be found in the region.
That said, the best fruit will continue to find its way into the top wines of each estate, that is of course, unless you know a producer who only makes one wine from the best fruits in a traditional style. One that comes to mind is Domaine Charvin.
Recently, I was lucky enough to have a chance to sit with Laurent Charvin and talk about his wines. Let me first say that Laurent is a man of passion. One who could never imagine making his wines in any other way. For him, it is a matter of honor, family tradition, and respect for Châteauneuf-du-Pape.
Laurent took the reins of his family’s winery in 1990. For five generations, the Charvin family was made up of growers and bottlers who sold to various negociants. However, he saw serious potential in their property and immediately began bottling for direct sale. What didn’t change were the traditional methods used and his belief in a winemaker’s connection to farming and nature. While many properties began to produce prestige bottles for international markets, Laurent stayed the course and continued to produce only one Chateauneuf du Pape made from the estate’s best fruit.
The Charvin Chateauneuf du Pape is a blend of 85% Grenache completed with a mix of Syrah, Mourvedre, and Vaccarese, all grown in stone, covered clay and limestone-rich soils in the northwest of the appellation.
The winemaking continues in the traditional vein with no destemming and fermentation in concrete tank, which is the same vessel used for the wine’s 18-month maturation before bottling. The goal is to create a wine that speaks of the southern Rhone, its grapes, and terroir, all while maintaining balance, freshness and the potential to mature in the cellar.
After tasting his 2013 Châteauneuf-du-Pape, what stunned me the most was how it transcended the difficulties of the vintage. It was beautiful, glorious, and a wine I would place in my own cellar. Passion is the key, as Laurent would say, and I wholeheartedly agree.
2013 Domaine Charvin Châteauneuf-du-Pape – The nose was gorgeous, showing intense red and black fruits, dark florals, spice and earth tones. On the palate, it displayed silky yet lifted textures with ripe strawberry fruit, sweet herbs, and spice. Hints of pepper, inner floral tones and bitter cherry lingered throughout the finish. This is so beautiful today that it’s hard to imagine waiting. (94 points) Find it at Morrell
As for the Cotes du Rhone, keep in mind that it is not a second wine. Le Poutet is made in a similar style to the Châteauneuf, but comes from a vineyard just outside of the AOC. It is well worth checking out.
2013 Domaine Charvin Côtes du Rhône (Le Poutet) – The nose showed crushed raspberry, exotic spice and white pepper. On the palate, I found silky textures offset by fresh strawberry, inner floral tones, and hints of pepper. It finished fresh with lingering hints of herbs and spice. (90 points)
Article and Tasting Notes by: Eric Guido
Many years ago, as a lover of Barolo, Barbera, Dolcetto, and–let’s face it–all things Piedmont, I walked into one of my favorite retailers on a Saturday morning with the intention of browsing their selection. Instead, I was greeted to an in-store tasting that introduced me to a producer who has since become a staple of my own collection, as well as a selection of wines that I’m proud to represent in our own store today. That producer is G.D. Vajra.
The international face of G.D. Vajra is Giuseppe, son of the owner Aldo, and a man who exudes passion for both his family and the Langhe. At first, it was this passion that drew me to the wines; yet the second I put my nose to the glass and then took a sip, it required no more convincing. I knew I was a fan.
This tasting spanned the entire range of wines, from the native Freisa (which Vajra has mastered), to the venerable Barolo, and onto one of the best Riesling you’ll ever taste from Italy. It inspired me to look deeper and understand more. I asked myself, how could a producer of wines such as these stay off my radar for so long? Much of it has to do with location, as this property isn’t located within the township of Barolo, or Castiglione, or La Morra. Instead, the G.D. Vajra winery is located in Vergne, the highest village on the western edge of the Barolo-growing area.
Can you name me another Barolo producer in Vergne? I’m sure that, today, some of the most devoted Barolo collectors can. However, ten years ago, I’d be amazed if they knew one. Much of this is the result of global warming, as this high-altitude location is benefitting from climate change. The vineyard of Bricco delle Viole (within Barolo) was once considered a site that would only produce lifted and finessed wines, yet could be looked to for a more serious example in warmer vintages. Today, however, it’s producing utterly classic examples in both warm and cool years.
This is not to say that G.D. Vajra has only come to the world stage due to climate change. Quite the opposite; this winery, firmly established in the early seventies, had been a pioneer among Barolo producers in the region, having started as fully organic before others even had the insight to do so. What’s more, it’s a truly traditional house that had realized early on that the only drawback to the older ways was in the cleanliness of their cellars. And so, G.D. Vajra operated for decades as a traditional producer who was well ahead of the times.
Today, G.D. Vajra operates under many of the same principles, maintaining the same level of excellence and tending their parcels through sustainable practices, yet has firmly established itself as one of the largest producers of wine in the region. Their classic and finessed single-vineyard Barolo Bricco delle Viole is now one of the top-scoring wines of every vintage, and it has now been perfectly complemented by the acquiring of the Baudana winery and their lineup of Serralunga Baroli.
What’s even more amazing is Vajra’s ability to produce their Barolo Albe, one of the greatest values in the region today. With fruit from a mix of high-altitude vineyards within Barolo (Fossati, Coste di Vergne and La Volta), the Able is said to be made in a more forward style, yet one can not deny its ability to mature gracefully for a decade or more.
Add to this their Barbera Superiore (a personal household favorite and one of the best of it’s kind), the Freisa Kyè (Dark, rich, intense with a hint of tantalizing bitterness), and the Dolcetto Coste & Fossati, (which would prove even the most stubborn Dolcetto naysayer wrong), and you have all of the Piedmont classics covered.
So what’s left? Riesling, Moscato, Chinato… Yes, they excel with these as well.
So as we are looking at vintages ahead and what’s come before, I hope my message is clear that G.D. Vajra is not just a producer to watch, their wines are a must-have for any Piedmont lover, Barolo collector, or adventurous palate. They are the perfect introduction to the region, as well as a reference point producer, and if you find yourself chatting with Giuseppe Vajra one day down the road, listen well, as the complete picture of what this family has accomplished is hit home by the love they have for their land, their family, and Barolo.
Below are a few of my favorite wines in recent vintages.
2011 G.D. Vajra Langhe Nebbiolo – The nose was vibrant with cherry and raspberry, hints of spice, crushed fall leaves and floral perfumes. On the palate it was juicy with intense red berry, clove and cinnamon stick, yet not sweet. The finish showed hints of tannin with tart cherry and mouthwatering acidity providing a beautiful balance. (90 points)
2013 G.D. Vajra Dolcetto d’Alba Coste & Fossati – The bouquet was dark and intense with violet floral tones up front, blackberry and tart cherry, pine, savory herbs, and minerals. It entered the palate with silky textures, then a sudden burst of acidity and tart blackberry fruit; yet as the cheeks puckered, the mouth also began to water, forming beautiful contrasts. If finished incredibly fresh, displaying inner floral tones, minerals and tart berry fruit. (92 points) * Find it at Morrell
2012 G.D. Vajra Barbera d’Alba Superiore – The nose was gorgeous, showing dark red fruit, licorice, sweet herbs, and dusty spice. It was silky, yet driven by vibrant acidity on the palate with crushed tart cherry, exotic spice and saline-minerality. Finishing with a coating of concentrated fruit upon the senses, yet suddenly becoming mouthwatering and fresh—what an experience. This is an amazing value and a wine of stature. (93 points) * Find it at Morrell
2013 G.D. Vajra Langhe Riesling Petracine – The nose was bright with intense fruit and floral aromas, showing ripe stone fruit, spring florals, and hints of citrus and minerals. On the palate, it showed persistence with its green apple and lime fruit with a hint of herbs and a pleasant tang of zesty acidity. The long floral finish made a lasting impression. (91 points)
2006 G.D. Vajra Langhe Freisa Kyè – The nose was dark, sensual and exotic, showing dusty spice, crushed dried flowers, pine, black raspberry, and stone. On the palate, intense yet silky textures were made vibrant by a core of juicy acidity. Cherry turned to cranberry with herbs and hints of cocoa, brightening as it traveled across the palate. The finish was mouth-puckering and long with tart fruits and tannin saturating the senses. Still very young, and demanding a few more years before the next visit. (94 points)
2010 G.D. Vajra Barolo Albe – The 2010 Barolo Albe impressed with a bouquet which literally reached up from the glass to pull you in. Notes of pine nettle and mint were front and center, joined by wild berry fruit and floral rosy tones. On the palate, sappy, brooding red fruits were contrasted by a streak of vibrant acidity. It was tightly coiled yet silky at the same time, with an herbal lift lending freshness. The finish was long and seemed to touch upon all the senses while also revealing a formidable structure, which was otherwise buried under its intense fruit. It’s surprisingly enjoyable now yet will reward further cellaring. (92 points)
2010 G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole – Talk about potential. Through a series of events, I was given the opportunity to taste this bottle three times throughout the day, and each taste was better than the one before. At 10am, it was all about intensity and densely-packed fruit laced with minerals and finishing on tannin. At 1pm, it began to open, gaining flesh and nuance as spice, leather, earth and balsamic tones joined the mix. At 5pm, it was a study in elegance. Still youthful in its tannin, but so giving all the same. Gorgeous floral tones and dark red fruits gave way to cedar and minerals. This is a wine for the ages. (95 points) * Find it at Morrell
2009 Luigi Baudana (Vajra) Barolo Cerretta – This was yet another tremendous experience with 2009 Baudana; this time the Cerretta vineyard. The bouquet was dark and powerful with intense red fruits offset by violet floral tones, minerals and chalk dust. The longer it sat in the glass, the more this beautiful wine continued to open. On the palate, rich, dark red and black fruit seemed to saturate the senses yet was held in check by strict Nebbiolo tannin and acidity. The finish was redolent of black licorice and dried cherry, making for a truly impressive finale. This is simply gorgeous and a standout of the vintage. (94 points)
Article and tasting notes by: Eric Guido
There’s something about the onset of spring that screams for Primavera sauces. Look up the word Primavera in an Italian dictionary, and the translation will be “In Spring”. Fresh vegetables and herbs are exactly what we crave as the weather begins to warm, yet the addition of butter, cream or rich tomatoes keeps us grounded and helps us easy our way into warm weather dinning. Substitute pasta with quinoa, and now you have a modern and healthy twist on a classic preparation.
Fire Roasted Tomatoes & Squash Primavera over Red Quinoa (pronounced: KEEN-Wah).
What started out as a recipe that may have resembled Pasta alla Norma became something much more because I needed to make the sauce into something so engaging, flavorful and significant that it would please the senses, the palate and the appetite, all on its own. This dish is vegetarian and extremely healthy but if you let that deter you, or convince yourself that “healthy” may equal “boring”, then you will be missing out.
Fire Roasted Tomato and Squash Primavera is a sauce loaded with vegetables in a sweet and spicy tomato reduction. The vegetables remain slightly firm, and each of them holds their own characteristic flavors. As you work your way through this dish you first find the sauce at center stage, which is smooth yet bursting with tomato flavor. It is slightly sweet but with a spicy kick that is only felt at the tail end. The ricotta cheese adds a creamy contrast and helps to cleanse your palate and prepare you for the next bite.
Now comes the squash with an intensity that only roasting can obtain. Yellow squash, zucchini and eggplant are all identifiable through their colors but also through their unique flavors. When you add a little quinoa to your fork, you realize how it all comes together, with a slightly crisp mouth feel and nutty flavor. It takes the sauce to the next level and creates a medley of flavors and sensations on your palate that causes eyes to roll as the satisfying sound of “umm” echoes around the table.
When selecting a wine, Sangiovese is the first thing that came to mind, as I’ve always found it to be a great compliment to tomato sauces with a spicy kick. One of my go-to producers is, San Giusto a Rentennano, a Chianti Classico which often displays a slightly richer and almost savory (in the best possible way) fruit profile. The mix of the property’s southern-most location in the region and mineral-laden soils provides the San Giusto a Rentennano with a depth not usually seen in Chianti. It really is the perfect pairing. (tasting notes below)
Fire Roasted Tomato and Squash Primavera over Red Quinoa
This recipe takes a good amount of prep time but I think you’ll find the actual cooking process to be quite easy. Since the presentation depends on the vegetables, make sure to take your time and make them as uniform as possible. You can make the sauce hours, or even a day, ahead of time and then warm at the time of service. I advise using a large roasting pan for the fire roasting and to sweat the mire poix. You will also need a sheet pan lined with aluminum foil and a medium size saucepot.
(Optional) A note on the preparation of the yellow squash, zucchini and eggplant: Wash them thoroughly because you will be using the skins. Do not peel them. You should aim to have a piece of skin on each piece of squash. Slice the squash into thirds (length-wise) with the centerpiece about two times the size of the other two. Reserve the two side slices and turn the center slice on its side. Now slice again into thirds. The result should be that the center of the squash (containing the majority of the seeds) would be left over without any skin. You can leave the center of the squash out of the recipe. The slices you made with the skin intact are what you want to use for your small dice. This is not necessary, but it adds a significant amount of visual appeal to the final product.
(Optional) A note on the San Marzano tomatoes: It’s beneficial to remove the seeds because they add bitterness to the final product, but it is not absolutely necessary to do so. This is not as difficult as it may sound, nor do you need to remove every seed. Set up two bowls with a wire mesh strainer in each and one bowl without. Open a can and pour the contents into the first strainer. Take a tomato in hand and, with your thumb, open the side of the tomato over the second bowl and strainer. Juice and the seeds will flow out of the tomato. Place that tomato into the third bowl and continue to do this until you have deseeded all tomatoes. Once this is complete, collect all of the juice into one bowl and, with a spoon (or your hand), massage the remaining contents from each strainer into the juice until the only thing left are seeds. In the end you should have one bowl of dry, deseeded tomatoes and one bowl of strained tomato juice.
2 28oz cans of San Marzano tomatoes (drained with seeds removed & juice reserved)
2 cups sweet onion (small dice)
1 cup carrot (small dice)
6 cloves garlic (fine dice)
1 cup yellow squash (small dice)
1 cup zucchini (small dice)
1 cup Italian eggplant (small dice)
2 Tbls. capers (rinsed and drained)
¼ cup sherry vinegar
¼ cup sugar
¼ cup white wine
¾ tsp. red pepper flakes
1 tsp. oregano (dry)
1 tsp. basil (dry)
1 Tbls. butter
1 ½ cups red quinoa
1 ½ cup vegetable stock
1 ½ cup water
1 Tbls. butter
1 cup ricotta cheese
salt & pepper (for seasoning)
olive oil (as needed)
1 bunch fresh basil
Pour the strained tomato juice into a medium pot and place over a medium flame. Stir in the sherry vinegar, sugar, red pepper flakes, oregano and basil. This mixture will cook like this through most of your cooking process, but it is important to stir from time to time. The goal is to reduce the liquid by half.
Turn your broiler on low and place an oven rack in the center of the oven. Put the yellow squash, zucchini and eggplant into a bowl and pour in enough olive oil to coat the vegetables. Toss to coat and season with salt. Check to make sure you have added enough oil; each piece should be lightly coated. Add more if necessary and pour the yellow squash, zucchini and eggplant onto a sheet pan lined with aluminum foil. Spread the vegetables out and place in the oven on the center rack.
Place a large roasting pan over low heat (it will likely span across two burners) and pour enough olive oil to just barely cover the bottom of the pan. Add the carrots, onions and garlic, and stir to coat with oil. Season them well with salt and allow them to sweat over low heat for about five minutes.
Check on the squash in the oven and stir if it appears to be browning.
Using your hands, break up the tomatoes into small chunks and place them into the roasting pan with the onions, carrots and garlic. If there is any juice at the bottom of the bowl, pour it into the saucepot, which should still be reducing. Also add the capers to the roasting pan and stir to combine. Continue to cook for about three minutes.
Now pull the squash from the oven. If it doesn’t look done, it’s okay, because it will continue to roast with the rest of the mixture. Pour the contents into the roasting pan and stir again to combine.
Place the roasting pan into the oven under the boiler on low. Roast, under the broiler, for six minutes and then stir. Repeat this process three more times (24 minutes total) but make sure that nothing begins to burn. While these items are roasting, check to make sure that the sauce is not reducing too much. Your goal is to reduce by half.
Now pull the vegetables from the oven and place the roasting pan back onto the stovetop over a medium flame. Pour in the white wine and stir. Continue cooking for another five minutes to allow the wine to cook off.
The sauce should be properly reduced at this time. Pour the contents of the saucepot into the roasting pan and stir to combine.
Remove from heat, add the butter and stir until combined. Lastly, season with salt and pepper to taste. It can be served now or cooled and set aside for later.
Cooking time can vary depending on the brand you buy, but the ratio of quinoa to liquid should be about 1 to 2.
Place vegetable stock and water in a medium saucepan, over high heat, and bring to a boil.
Add red quinoa and stir. Reduce heat to low medium and cover. Cook for about 15 – 20 minutes but make sure to check packaging for cooking times.
While the quinoa cooks, take the basil and remove the ‘blooms’ for garnish. Take a small bunch of leaves and chop fine.
Take a two-inch, round dough cutter and place in the center of the plate. Spoon the quinoa evenly around the dough cutter. Ladle the primavera sauce into the center of the dough cutter. Top with a dollop of ricotta cheese and a basil bloom. Pull the dough cutter straight up and off of the plate. Clean the rim of your plates with a warm, moist towel and serve.
… as for the wine:
2013 San Giusto a Rentennano Chianti Classico – This is another great vintage for San Giusto. The nose showed a thrilling and intense display of crushed raspberry, cherry, dusty floral tones, cedar, and spice. On the palate, I found silky textures offset by a vibrant core of acidity, showing tart red berries, charred meat, minerals, savory herbs and fine tannin. The finish was long, with its saturating red fruits and savory tones, yet most notable was it’s saline minerality, which lingered for well over a minute. (92 points) Find it at Morrell
Article, recipe and tasting notes by: Eric Guido
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