The Dry Riesling movement has been in full swing now for many years in Germany. While in U.S. markets, consumers still think of Riesling as an easy-going, off-dry white with a fun zing of acidity. The reality is that Germany is now producing some of the most exciting, world-class, dry (Trocken) Rieslings we have ever encountered. A number of producers have been at the forefront of this movement. I have recently been touting the name Keller, in the Rheinhessen, with their tremendous Trocken and Grosses Gewächs. Yet, just west of this region we find the Nahe, and a winery making some of the most exciting wine in Germany today: Emrich-Schonleber.
Here, it is the story of a forward-thinking family and two amazing vineyards. With a vine-growing history that goes back over two centuries, it wasn’t until the 1960s when Werner Schonleber worked with his father to reform their family farm and focus on the vineyards and winemaking. His primary goal was to reclaim the greatness of two of the Nahe’s most prestigious locations, Frühlingsplätzchen and Halenberg. At the time, their holdings consisted of only 5 acres mixed throughout the two locations. Yet today, the family is in full control of a total of 44 acres spread across the region, but focus primarily in their historic Grand Cru family vineyards.
Werner’s son, Frank Schonleber, took a special interest in winemaking over the past decade, and worked to focus the family’s efforts on the categories of Trocken and Grosses Gewächs. The recent success that Emrich-Schonleber has enjoyed is very much the result of Frank’s forward-thinking methods in the cellar, which include spontaneous fermentation and treating each individual parcel in a way that he feels will best accentuate the translation of each unique terroir. To achieve his goal, there are no strict rules to barrel size, aging vessel or the time it takes for each wine to mature before release.
The combination of Werner’s work and strict selection in the vineyards, the family’s holdings in two of the most prestigious sites in the region, and Frank’s methodologies in the cellar, has catapulted the wines of Emrich-Schonleber to the apogee of Germany’s dry wine revolution.
That said, they aren’t cheap, but the reality is that the majority of German wine in this category is currently undervalued, and I believe the day will come when these wine are looked back upon as relative values as they mature for decades in our cellars.
On To The Wines:
Emrich-Schönleber Riesling Kabinett Monzinger 2014 – On the nose I found light lemon and sweet, spiced pear. It was vibrant on the palate, with soft textures and spiced pear, yet it’s a bit one-dimensional. The finish was incredibly long on ripe pear with great acidity. Yet there’s a level of depth that’s missing in this spicy and soft Kabinett. (90 points)
Emrich-Schönleber Riesling Trocken 2015 – The nose showed floral undergrowth, ripe melon, and hints of herbs. On the palate, I found zesty textures with savory, mineral-driven stone fruits and hints of lemon. Tart citrus and minerals lasted long on the finish. (91 points)
Emrich-Schönleber Riesling Troken Mineral 2015 – The nose showed intense minerality with lime and green apple. On the palate, I found silky, acid-driven, mineral textures, with ripe citrus and green apple. The finish was fresh and laden with minerals. (92 points)
Emrich-Schönleber Riesling Lenz 2015 – The nose was floral and rich with ripe stone fruits. On the palate, I found weighty textures with intense green apple acidity, spice, minerals and inner florals. The finish was remarkably long with tart apple and citrus. (93 points)
I must admit that of the two Schonleber crus, that Halenberg is my favorite. The stoney blue slate and quartz soils force the vines in Halenberg to dig deep for nutrients, which helps explain the structure and mineral intensity found throughout these wines. Also, don’t skip the Halenberg Trocken (renamed Hagans in 2014), while this may be seen as a second wine, I promise you that it’s only a baby-step below the pricier GG.
Emrich-Schönleber Riesling Monzinger Halenberg Trocken Halgans 2014 – Here I found a wonderfully fresh and vibrant bouquet, with crushed stone and yellow florals. On the palate, soft, mineral-driven textures gave way to notes of green apple. It was long and tart on the finish, with stone fruit and citrus, and a zing of minerality. (92 points)
Emrich-Schönleber Riesling Monzinger Halenberg Trocken 2012 – Another fantastic performance, the bouquet was gorgeous, opening with intense minerality and wet slate, gaining richness in the glass, as notes of peach and pineapple formed, then changed to smoke, crushed stone and floral undergrowth. On the palate, it showed razor-like focus with tantalizing acidity, giving way to notes of melon, green apple, minerals and lime. There’s so much tension here as a coating of minerals and citrus saturated the senses, made the checks pucker, and lasted for up to a minute. (94 points) @morrell
Emrich-Schönleber Riesling Trocken GG Monzinger Halenberg 2014 – The nose showed savory minerality with an almost seashore quality, before going to floral undergrowth, minerals, and washed cheese rind. On the palate, it was textural with balanced acids paving the way for ripe stone fruits, intense, chalky minerality, and inner florals. The finish was intense with tart citrus, minerals, melon and inner floral tones. (94+ points) @morrell
Emrich-Schönleber Riesling Monzinger Halenberg ‘R’ 2012 – The nose was massive yet refined, with ripe peach and pear giving way to minerals, spice and floral undergrowth. On the palate I found soft, voluptuous textures with ripe stone fruits and great acidity, soothing the palate, along with inner florals, and hints of lemon. It coated the palate in pure melon and stone fruits, with lingering floral tones, in an amazingly long expression. (96 points) @morrell
Defined by it’s red slate and gravel soils, along with a 70% incline at its steepest point, the Monzinger Fruhlings Platzchen enjoys southeast to southwest exposures and creates Riesling of undeniable finesse and elegance.
Emrich-Schönleber Monzinger Frühlingsplätzchen Frühtau 2015 – The nose showed intense crushed-stone minerality, floral undergrowth, and green apple. On the palate, I found soft textures with ripe stone fruits and citrus. The finish was remarkably long with tart citrus and melon. I wanted more acidity. (91 points)
Article and tasting notes by: Eric Guido
For the last two weeks NYC has been honored to host the who’s who of Piedmont for Antonio Galloni’s La Festa del Barolo, and with many of these producers came my first taste of 2013 Barolo from bottle. Let me just say that the hype is officially warranted.
Over the last two years we’ve been hearing hints about the possibility that 2013 could be the next great vintage. Producers would wax poetic over their expectations, and as friends returned from the region having tasted from barrel, each one would go on and on about the vintage.
The first clues we had to the potential of 2013 came from Antonio Galloni of Vinous, who is constantly on the ground in Piedmont and tasting across a wide range of both young and mature wines. I still think back to his 2012 Barolo article “Grace Under Pressure”, where he tipped his hat in saying “The 2013 Barolos I have tasted from cask are aromatically compelling, rich and structured; in other words super-classic. At their best, the 2013s come across as slightly richer versions of the 2010s.” The comparison to 2010 and the thought of an added level of richness set my imagination on fire.
However, there was another thing to consider, and that’s the escalation of Barolo prices and how important it is to get in as early as possible, especially when you consider the mad dash that collectors made for the 2010’s. All of this has cumulated into one of the most highly anticipated vintages that I have ever witnessed.
And so, as the list of Barolo producers who would be in town for La Festa grew, my message to everyone I knew was to please, please, please let me taste some 2013 Barolo–and my wish was granted.
Chiara Boschis, Elisa Scavino, Fabio Alessandria, and Giuseppe Vajra all took the time to taste and talk with me about the vintage, and what I found was nothing short of spectacular. The 2013 vintage was defined by wet and humid conditions in the spring, yet balanced out into a long and warm growing season, followed by the perfect yin and yang of warm days and cool nights in the fall. The result was a perfect crop for any producer who tended their vineyards with care. Giuseppe Vajra, of G.D. Vajra, told me that he “…feels like the 2013 vintage is closest to the 2008s,” which happens to be one of his all time favorites.
For me, I find the structure of 2010, the aromatics of 2012 and the vibrancy of 2008, but we can talk in these terms for days. In the end, these are some of the most enjoyable young Barolos I’ve ever tasted. They posses stunningly layered aromatics, which continue to open in the glass over time, coupled with beautifully refined tannin, depths of fruit and enveloping textures. Frankly, it was difficult to pick favorites in nearly every tasting. I also couldn’t help but notice how enjoyable the Barolos made from a blend of vineyards were as well. The Paolo Scavino Barolo and Carobric, the Chiara Boschis Via Nuova, and the Vajra Albe were all amazing wines that will be thrilling us for decades to come.
I’m happy to say that 2013 Barolo will be arriving on our shores very soon, and I will certainly be a buyer. Let the hunt begin.
2013 G.D. Vajra Barolo Bricco delle Viole – The nose showed incredible depth with exotic floral tones, saline minerals, a bit of marine flora, plum, dusty spice and rosy florals. On the palate, I found mineral-laden cherry, cranberry, inner floral tones, exotic spice, and exquisitely fine tannin. The finish was long, long, long with masses of inner floral tones and dried berries. This wine has a long life ahead of it, and I can’t wait to see where it’s going. (97 points)
2013 Vietti Barolo Rocche di Castiglione – The nose was gorgeous and lifted with bright rosy floral tones, brilliantly pure red fruits, dusty earth, soaring minerality, wet stone, and exotic spices. On the palate, I found feminine textures with tart red cherry, herbs, inner florals and gorgeous, balancing acidity. It finish long and fresh on sweet herbs, minerals and fresh cherries. This is classic Rocche. (97 points)
2013 Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric dël Fiasc – The nose showed intense mineral-infused red berry, cherry, cranberry and hints of plum with a savory edge, then evolving into mint, licorice, undergrowth and hints of herbs. On the palate, silky yet massive textures gave way to a dark mix of both ripe black and tart red fruits, with notes of dark earth, minerals and a twang of bitter herbs. Tannins saturated the senses, yet they weren’t drying or tiring, as a coating a dark red fruits soothed the palate. This was a remarkably balanced Bric del Fiasc that is deceptive in its early appeal. (97 points) @morrell
2013 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Vigneto Cannubi – The nose showed masses of dark red fruits, crushed berries, wild herbs, pretty floral tones, and dusty spices, yet through the entire experience remained floral and finessed. On the palate, I found, dense, silky textures which coated the senses with notes of crushed berry and strawberry, before transitioning to inner florals and leather tones. It was much more lifted and refined than expected, with a long finish, displaying fresh red fruits and inner floral tones. (96 points)
2013 Vietti Barolo Ravera – The nose is incredibly deep, rooted in minerals, earth and spice, with dark floral tones, black cherry, plum, blackberry and mint. With time it opened even more to to reveal ethereal florals and herbs. On the palate, I found elegant, velvety textures, with sweet tannins and brisk mineral-laced acidity, giving way to dark fruits, minerals, plum, dried citrus, and hints of lavender. The finish was incredibly long with saturating dark fruits, yet youthfully tannic and closed in on itself. (96 points)
2013 Paolo Scavino Barolo Carobric – The nose on the ‘13 Carobric was stunning. Here I found a layered, lifted and classic mix of crushed cherry, rosey florals, minerals and undergrowth, which turned savory over time, adding hints of dark spices and tobacco. On the palate, I found a vibrant yet silky expression with depths of red cherry playing a sweet-and-sour act on the senses, along with savory herbs and zesty acidity. It finished fresh yet structured on cherries and spice. (96 points) @morrell
2013 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero – This is unmistakably Monvigliero. The nose displayed black olive, savory herbs, exotic florals, crushed strawberry, and Indian spice. On the palate, I found soft textures with pure red berry fruit, inner florals and a balanced mix of fine-grained tannins and brisk acidity. It was lifted, pure and classically structured throughout. The finish was long of dried cherry, strawberry and floral tones. (96 points)
2013 Vietti Barolo Lazzarito – Here I found a dark and brooding bouquet of black and red fruits, moist earth, minerals, fresh mint, and hints of exotic spices. On the palate, I found silky, enveloping textures laced with fine tannin, giving way to saturating dark red fruits, hints of spice and bitter herbs. The finish went on and on–and on–with minerals, mint and a bitter twang of herbs. This an amazing vintage for Lazzarito. (96 points) @morrell
2013 E. Pira & Figli (Chiara Boschis) Barolo Cannubi – This is a chameleon of a wine, with a bouquet that showed medicinal herb, raspberry, at times almost dark syrupy, then turning to black cherry, balsamic tones, giving way to minerals, dusty exotic spices and earth. On the palate, I found silky textures (very textural and dark – almost imposing at times) and dark red fruits which coated the wine’s fine tannin and saturated the senses over time. It was imposing and intense on the long finish, as fine grain tannin coated the senses, yet it’s wonderfully balanced. This should have some future in store. (96 points) @morrell
2013 E. Pira & Figli (Chiara Boschis) Barolo Via Nuova – The nose was remarkably pretty with dark red fruits, roses, minerals, and exotic spices. It was brooding and at times reticent, until a note of minerals and crushed stone joined the fray. On the palate, I found lean, dense textures with dark red berry fruit laced with minerals and a web of fine tannin that saturated the senses. It was amazingly long on saturating dark red fruits and tannin. So classic. (95 points) @morrell
2013 Paolo Scavino Barolo Cannubi – The ‘13 Cannubi was a dark and imposing wine of massive depth. Here I found notes of black cherry, sweet herbs, dark chocolate, dusty spice, and crushed stone. On the palate, a massive wave of velvety textures flooded the senses, and red and black fruits gave way to fine tannin. It was quite monolithic yet not over the top, and it tempted me with what was yet to come. The finish displayed intense tart black and red fruits with lasting minerality, seeming to create a black hole on the palate. I can’t even imagine what this wine will reveal in the decades to come, but I’m sure it will be something very special. (95 points) @morrell
2013 Paolo Scavino Barolo Bricco Ambrogio – This showed a stunning array of aromatics, as eucalyptus and mint opened up to become tart cherry, roses, minerals and hints of undergrowth. On the palate, I found weighty textures of sheer silk, yet lively and balanced, as notes of plum and black cherry gave way to savory tones of salinity and herbs. It finished long on black cherry, spices and fine-grain tannin. (95 points) @morrell
2013 Luigi Baudana Barolo Baudana – The nose was dark and rich with brown spices, crushed blackberry, a dusty mix of minerals and spice with a hint of animal musk. On the palate, I found remarkably soft, velvety textures with zesty black fruits, ripe plum and a bitter hint of herbal spice. It was at once youthfully tannic, yet fresh with a dark and imposing persona, finishing long with dark red fruits, saturating spice and a coating of fine tannin. (95 points)
2013 Luigi Baudana Barolo Cerretta – The nose was spicy, with sweet florals and minerals, tart cherry, wild berry, and brown spices. Over time it became more polished and dark fruited, yet never losing it’s mineral thrust. On the palate, it was dark yet lifted and fresh with notes of wild herbs, blackberry and gruff tannin. Drying over time with youthful tannin, the finish was long and structured, only hinting at fruit. The cerretta will require many years in the cellar to show its best. (94 points)
2013 E. Pira & Figli (Chiara Boschis) Barolo Mosconi – The nose was polished yet earthy, showing dark red fruits with dusty spices, crushed stone minerality, dark earth and floral tones. On the palate, I found pure, silky textures offset by vibrant acidity with tart red fruits, fine tannin and with a zesty acidity that created a bright expression with inner rosy florals. It finished long with tart berries and clenching young tannin. (94 points)
2013 Vietti Barolo Brunate – The nose was dark and rich, showing mineral-laced floral tones, iron, hints of sweet dark spices, and balsamic tones. On the palate, I found savory, silky textures, with dark red berries, plum, and hints of balsamic. It finished incredibly long and brooding with penetrating notes of dark red berries and dried spices. (94 points) @morrell
2013 G.D. Vajra Barolo Ravera – What an incredible bouquet on the 2013 Ravera. Here I found sweet dark florals, and brown spices in an exotic and hauntingly beautiful mix, than minerals, earth and undergrowth come forward. On the palate, I found soft textures with ripe dark red fruits, minerals and slow mounting tannin. It finished refined with saturating, brooding tannin and caking minerality. (94 points)
2013 Paolo Scavino Barolo – This displayed a remarkably layered and engaging bouquet for an entry-level offering. Here I found woodsy earth tones with hints of mint, opening to mineral-infused cherry and tobacco. On the palate, I found lifted textures with a fine web of crystalline tannin that gently caressed the senses, as notes of tart cherry were smoothed out by zesty acidity. It finished long and structured on tart cherry and herbs. This was a fantastic showing. (94 points) @morrell
2013 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Acclivi – What an exotic and floral bouquet, showing wild herbs, strawberry and hints of rose. On the palate, I found soft textures offset by tart red berry, inner floral tones and dusty spices. It finished dry with a coating of fine tannin and masses of dry extract. (93 points)
2013 Vietti Barolo Castiglione – The nose opened with hints of cedar dust, dried cherries, and crushed fall leaves. On the palate, I found refined and silky textures, with pure red fruits, spice, intense minerals and savory depth. The finish was long with hauntingly dark floral tones and hints of bitter herbs. (93 points)
2013 G.D. Vajra Barolo Albe – The bouquet displayed intense bright cherry, mint, pine, hints of cedar, roses and spice. On the palate, I found silky textures with a cherry and plum mix, lifted by wonderfully balanced acidity and a hint of youthful tannin. The finish was long with a coating of tart cherry, blackberry, medicinal herbs and hints of spice. (93 points)
2013 Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo – The nose was gorgeous, showing crushed raspberry, hints of herbs, and dusty spice. On the palate, I found soft textures, lifted by pure red fruits, inner floral tones and light tannin. It was remarkably pure, leading in a long finish with hints of tannin and inner floral tones. (92 points)
2013 Paolo Scavino Barolo Monvigliero – The nose displayed sweet herbs, undergrowth and cherry liquor. On the palate, silky textures were offset by a bitter twang of tart red fruits and herbs, as the Monvigliero maintained its freshness through zesty acidity. The finish was long with saturating dark red fruits, spice and mint. I enjoyed this quite a bit, yet it lacks the textural heft that brings balance throughout the rest of the lineup. (92 points) @morrell
Article, Tasting Notes and Photos by: Eric Guido
The first time I heard a reference to the 2012 vintage was while tasting the 2010 Brunellos at Benvenuto over two years ago. The problem was that the 2010’s were so promising upon release, that as often as we were told that the 2012 Rossos showed the tremendous potential of the vintage ahead, we simply couldn’t get past the excitement of the ‘10s. After all, this was the vintage that drew a line in the sand, and brought consumers back to Brunello after years of lackluster vintages.
Then came 2011, where the ripeness of fruit could literally be felt as it saturated the senses, and, in my case, actually made my teeth ache. We were told that this wasn’t such a bad thing and that the wines would be great for near-term consumption. Unfortunately, with the exception of only a small number of producers, 2011 remains a vintage in which I found very little to get excited about.
However, we can put that all aside, because now that the 2012 vintage is hitting our shores, Brunello lovers have something to be excited about. Before I say anything else, let’s address the number one question on everyone’s mind: are these as good as the 2010’s? Unfortunately, that’s a difficult question to answer, because there is some variability that’s starting to become much more apparent throughout the region. The fact is that the terroir of Montalcino has become very important, and many consumers (and winemakers) aren’t really ready to talk about it.
You can see a trend in Montalcino, and that’s the release of single vineyard or parcel selected bottles that come either from the more northern vineyards or from the higher elevations of southern vineyards. The reason for this is the promise that these locations show in warmer vintages, and let’s be honest, 2012 was a warm vintage. Many people are avoiding that fact, as the term “warm vintage” has become synonymous with overripe. However, that is a broad generalization for a region that spans 24,000 hectares (that’s 59,000 acres), with altitudes ranging between 120 – 650 meters above sea level.
Just to put things in perspective, when many producers were asked about 2012, a large percentage compared the vintage to 2011 from the perspective of warmth and the length of the growth cycle. However, there was one very big difference. Where 2011 saw drastic spikes of heat throughout the season, 2012 remained consistently warm, which allowed the vines to adapt. 2012 was also very dry from winter through August, with just enough precipitation in the early fall to aid in maturation, yet the extended drought still resulted in a 14% smaller harvest than 2011.
So now that the numbers are out of the way, let’s talk about the wines. The 2012’s, in general, are mid-weight wines with gorgeous aromatics and intensely concentrated fruit on the palate that is offset by fresh acidity. In most cases the tannins are unexpectedly refined, especially considering the vintage conditions, and left me with a classic expression on the finish. At their best, they are enjoyable now on their freshness, (which isn’t something you’d expect from a ripe vintage, but that 2012 has in spades) yet also structured enough to go strong in the cellar for ten to fifteen years–and possibly beyond.
The pitfalls of the vintage lay in the lower elevations and areas that experience a more Mediterranean climate. Here we need to pick and choose. Though there are a number of standouts, such as the ever-reliable Il Poggione and Uccelliera, other producers turned out a set of wines that are highly enjoyable and easily gulpable, which ultimately is not what the average Brunello buyer is looking for.
When all is said and done, 2012 is the vintage we’ve been waiting for. These wines will not take twenty years to come around, yet are serious contenders for mid-term cellaring. They will be enjoyable early because of their aromatics and youthful appeal, but will also go the long haul in the cellar. In the end, it’s a highly enjoyable vintage and a perfect comeback following the 2011’s.
On To The Tasting Notes:
Canalicchio di Sopra Brunello di Montalcino 2012 – Upon first pour, the ‘12 Brunello was dark, imposing and monolithic; yet with time in the glass, an array of crushed cherry, sweet herbs, cedar, and moist earth tones came forward. On the palate, I found velvety textures with a fresh core of vibrant acidity adding verve, as notes of tart berry, cherry, plum and exotic spice set upon the senses. The finish was long and structured with herbal dark red fruits lasting throughout. I can imagine that five years or more will do this wine a lot good, and I can’t wait to see where it goes from there. (95 points) Find it at Morrell
Tenuta Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino Vigna La Casa 2012 – The nose was intense and layered with fresh red berries up front, giving way to earth tones, savory herbs and minerals. On the palate, silky-broad textures coated the senses while tart red berry and zesty acidity provided lift. Hints of spice, leather and inner florals lasted on the finish, along with fine-grain tannin that promised years of development. (95 points)
Castello Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino Filo di Seta 2012 – The nose was gorgeous, showing depths of black and red fruits, dark floral tones and notes of undergrowth. On the palate, I found soft, velvety textures which were contrasted by zesty acid, minerals and tart red fruits, with notes of spice and cedar. It finished long, structured and balanced with persistent red berry fruit and spice. What a difference this northwestern vineyard makes from the normale. This is a beautiful 2012 Brunello for the cellar. (94 points)
Altesino Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli 2012 – The nose was gorgeous with dark red fruits, plum, sweet florals, dark chocolate, and hints of undergrowth. On the palate, I found silky, deep textures which seemed to coat all of the senses, giving way to dried red berries, earth, leather tones and fine tannin. It finished structured, yet with a sweet tannin that was still coated in dark red fruit. (94 points) Find it at Morrell
Il Poggione (Proprietá Franceschi) Brunello di Montalcino 2012 – The nose was gorgeous with perfumed floral tones up front, giving way to notes of ripe strawberry, cranberry, dried spices and undergrowth. On the palate, I found soft textures offset by vibrant acidity and fine tannin, as inner florals, earth and berry tones soothed the senses. It finished long on dried berries, hints of spice and young tannin, promising many years of development. This was simply a pleasure to taste, and it is deceptively enjoyable today–as the best is yet to come. (94 points) Find it at Morrell
Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino 2012 – The nose was classic, displaying crushed strawberry, dusty florals, earth, leather and hints of cinnamon spice. On the palate, I found silky textures hosting notes of tart red berry, exotic spice, minerals, zesty acidity, and ending in a web of fine tannin. The finish was long and refined with a classic structure and persistent red fruits. This wine should have many, many years of development in store for us. (93 points) Find it at Morrell
Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino Prime Donne 2012 – The nose was deep and intense with luscious, ripe blackberry fruit tones backed by notes of sweet herbs and dusty florals. On the palate, I found an almost-juicy persona with vibrant yet silky textures showcasing black and red berries with savory mineral tones. It finished long and textural on sweet spice and cherry liquor. (93 points)
Capanna Brunello di Montalcino 2012 – The nose showed soaring dark red fruits and floral tones with hints of spice and damp earth. On the palate, I found velvety textures with smooth tannins, crushed strawberry, plum and sweet inner floral tones. The finish was long, showing dark fruits and fine tannin that coated the senses. (93 points)
Castelgiocondo (Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi) Brunello di Montalcino 2012 – The nose was dark with masses of sweet and spicy black cherry, chocolate and floral tones. On the palate, i found soft textures backed by intensely concentrated dark red fruits, spice and hints of mocha. Even through the richness in this glass, a wave vibrant acidity provided freshness, which lasted throughout the finish. This may not be my personal preference for Brunello, but it’s a solid performer for those looking for an extroverted style. (92 points)
Col di Lamo Brunello di Montalcino 2012 – The nose showed perfumed red berry fruit and floral tones with hints of dusty spice and wax. On the palate, I found silky, refined textures offset by saturating dark red fruits and fine tannin. Persistent red fruits continued to resonate on the finish, nearly masking the refined tannin that coated the senses. (92 points)
Donatella Cinelli Colombini Brunello di Montalcino 2012 – The nose was dark and earthy with notes of crushed strawberry, exotic spices and hints of undergrowth. On the palate, I found silky textures on a medium-bodied frame with tart, dark red fruits and lifting inner floral tones. Its fine tannins made themselves known throughout the finish, along with a lasting impression of concentrated wild berry fruit. (92 points)
Altesino Brunello di Montalcino 2012 – Here I found a lifted mix of red berry fruit, plum, and dark chocolate. On the palate, silky textures were made vibrant though zesty acidity with spicy red fruits and hints of leather. It finished medium-long on dried strawberry and hints of herbs. Not too shabby. (92 points) Find it at Morrell
Talenti Brunello di Montalcino 2012 – On the nose, I found perfumed florals, dark cherry, and hints of moist soil. Silky textures flooded the senses on a medium-bodied frame with notes of tart cherry and hints of herbs, yet there was a pleasing richness here that surprised me. The finish displayed medium length and fresh red fruits. (91 points)
Tenuta Caparzo Brunello di Montalcino 2012 – The nose displayed a perfumed bouquet with notes of tart red berry and minerals. On the palate, I found medium-bodied textures with dark red fruits ushered in by acid-driven silky textures. Hints of earth and spice lingered on the finish. (91 points)
Voliero Brunello di Montalcino 2012 – The nose was remarkably pretty and refined, displaying tart red berries, spice and dusty earth. On the palate, I found an intensely fruited burst of energy that leveled out into silky, balanced textures with a core of crystalline minerality and spice. The finish was long, with light tannins coating the senses and notes of dried cherry lingering long. (91 points)
Tenuta Buon Tempo Brunello di Montalcino “P. 56” 2012 – The nose showed pretty red florals with dusty spice, minerals and hints of candied cherry. On the palate, I found soft textures offsetting persistent red berry fruits, dark earth and savory minerality. It finished on bitter cherry, spice and hints of fine-grained tannins. (91 points)
Castello Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino 2012 – The nose displayed floral perfumes with notes of tart berry and crushed stone minerality. On the palate, I found dark, concentrated red fruits with grainy intensity and a core of savory minerals. It finished long on persistent red fruits and dry tannin. (90 points)
Tenuta Buon Tempo Brunello di Montalcino 2012 – The nose displayed a mix of plum, cherry and cranberry, before giving way to woodsy earth tones and spice. On the palate, I found tart red fruits on a medium-bodied frame with a core of minerality which settled on the back palate. The finish shorter than expected, seeming almost hollow, with hints of bitter red fruits lingering. (89 points)
Pian Delle Vigne (Antinori) Brunello di Montalcino 2012 – The nose was dark, imposing and intense with spicy candied red fruit and notes of plum. On the palate, I found weighty textures with sweet and sour cherry and spice, yet one-dimensional. The finish was long with bitter dark red fruits. (88 points)
A recipe & pairing by: Eric Guido
I’ve posted quite a few recipes that could take from an hour to six hours of preparation and usually with a decent hit to the wallet. So I got to thinking about the average person or aspiring cook in this busy day and age. I know that entertaining can be laborious and often expensive, but what if you could make a pasta plate that could stand tall next to anything a restaurant has to offer and do it in under a half hour from start to finish? Then, what if I told you it could cost less than $30 to feed a party of four? Seems too good to be true? Well it’s not; it’s Penne alla Vodka.
Penne alla Vodka is not a traditional Italian preparation and searching for its roots leads to a wealth of disinformation and theories. What is fact is that ages ago it was realized that alcohol can help to bring out flavors in tomatoes that cannot otherwise be obtained through any other preparation (known as alcohol soluble). This is often why a red sauce will include wine in its list of ingredients. Not only does it help to bring out these flavors but it also imparts its own qualities to the sauce.
Penne alla Vodka is a balancing act of flavors. The sweet sautéed garlic and onions play against the woodsy and smoky pancetta. The crushed red pepper provides a heat that is kept in check by the addition of heavy cream, which also rounds out any rough edges left behind by the vodka. The tomatoes take center stage providing a deep, fresh, succulent tomato flavor that, I find, can only be achieved in this dish. Lastly, the basil grounds you in reality with an earthy, vegetal mintiness, which brings it all together… God I love Penne alla Vodka!
As for the wine, pairing with this dish can be tricky. It’s a rich, cream based, tomato sauce so you’d think that any high acid red would do the trick. However, there’s a spiciness to this dish that would react badly to anything high in alcohol. This led me to think of Sangiovese, but in this case I wouldn’t go for something mature, as the tannins in a young will interact well with the cream sauce. Lastly, in keeping with the value oriented theme of this recipe, let’s keep our pairing under $35 and make it easy to find. I believe the answer is pretty obvious. The perfect pairing here would be Rosso di Montalcino, and I can’t think of a better option than Canalicchio di Sopra, which is a property that has been truly exciting me over the last few years.
This is truly fine dinning in your home without the price tag or the hassle. Enjoy!
Penne alla Vodka
Serves 4 – 5 guests
A note on the ingredients: Try to find San Marzano tomatoes imported from Italy. Believe it or not there are domestic brands that try to trick you with tomatoes of inferior quality and a completely different taste. Also, using penne “rigate” (instead of regular penne) is important because the texture holds the sauce to the penne. Lastly, an entire bottle of vodka is not included in the cost of the recipe and since it is only a ¼ cup, use the good stuff if you’ve got it. Remember, your food is primarily the sum of your ingredients.
- 28 oz can San Marzano tomatoes
- 5 cloves minced garlic
- ½ cup yellow onion cut into fine dice
- ½ cup pancetta small dice
- ¼ cup vodka
- ¾ cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano
- 1 cup heavy cream
- 1 – 2 tbls olive oil
- 1/4 – 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes (depending on your preference for spice)
- 1 pound penne rigate
- 8 fresh basil leaves cut chiffonade (This should not be done until the end of the cooking process.)
- salt and pepper
While bringing a pot of salted water to a boil, measure out and prepare your ingredients.
In a large saucepan, pour in olive oil and set to medium flame. When the oil begins to shimmer, add the pancetta and cook until browned (about 4 minutes). Remove the pancetta from the pan and reserve as a garnish for later.
Add the onions and garlic to the pan and season well with salt. It is also at this time that you should add the pasta to the boiling water and set the timer for 1 minute short of the recommended cooking time. Cook the onion and garlic mixture until translucent (about 2 minutes).
Raise the heat to medium high, and add the red pepper flakes to the pan and stir. Pull the pan from the stove (away from the flame. This is not a flambe) and add the vodka. Place back on the stove and add the tomatoes. Stir well to combine.
You should stir regularly as the sauce cooks over the medium high flame. Make sure that it does not begin to burn on the pan bottom. If the sauce appears to be reducing too quickly, lower the flame to medium.
About the same time that the pasta is done, add the cream to the sauce and stir to combine. Season the vodka sauce with salt and pepper to taste. Drain your pasta completely and quickly rinse out the pot and dry.
Pour the pasta back into the pot and add ½ cup of the grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and half of the brown pancetta. Stir them into the pasta and then pour the sauce into the pot. Move the pot onto a medium flame and continue cooking for one minute. Remove from the heat and stir well.
Allow the pasta and sauce to sit in the pot for two more minutes, stirring from time to time. This allows the pasta to absorb and integrate with the sauce. While the pasta is resting, cut your basil.
Stir one last time and ladle the pasta onto warmed plates. Dress with basil chiffonade, browned pancetta and a sprinkle of grated Parmigiano Reggiano. Clean the rims of your plates with a warm, moist towel and serve.
2014 Canalicchio di Sopra Rosso di Montalcino – On the nose, I found fresh red floral notes offset by sweet strawberry and minerals. It was lifted and focused on the palate with pure red fruits, beautiful mouthwatering acidity and spicy grip. The finish was long, showing red berries, herbs and mineral tones. (91 points) at Morrell
In comparison to many of the collectors I know, my experience with Barolo is relatively short. It was only eleven years ago that I was pulled into the world of Nebbiolo. I was warned by others that it could happen, that I might be entering into a hobby that would become a lifelong obsession. The world of Barolo and Barbaresco is vast, and the unique experiences depend on so many deciding factors. The soil, the climate, the exposition, and altitude are just the beginning. When you take it to the next level, you see that the lists of vineyard names and unique qualities of each one can fill a book–in fact, they have. Then you look beyond that, to the vintage, the winery, the winemaker, the style and the passion.
You start to realize that with each wine you acquire and enjoy, you are further embarking on a journey to understanding how a bottle of fermented grape juice can be so moving, or simply stop you in your tracks. That’s the magic of Barolo and Barbaresco.
The history of this region, and how it came to be, is just as important as the factors which decide what the experience will entail. From that living history, we come across the names of producers who have shaped the entire region, and what we perceive to be the greatest experiences we’ve encountered. From that list of names, one person who stands out for his pioneering spirit, insights, and unique abilities, is Bruno Giacosa.
Bruno Giacosa didn’t learn his craft studying enology at school. Instead, at the age of thirteen, Bruno began working in the cellar with his father and grandfather, who made their business producing wine that would be sold in demijohn instead of being bottled at the winery. This wasn’t a family of farmers turned winemakers; this was a family of grape brokers who had established long-lasting relationships throughout the region. The experience of touring landscapes of the surrounding villages with his father helped to shape Bruno and hone his most valuable asset, that is, his ability to source the best fruit for both Barolo and Barbaresco.
Located in Neive, Bruno took the reins of the family business in 1960 and immediately began bottling wine from what would become some of the biggest named vineyards in the region. His first vintage was 1961, when he bottled a Barolo (with fruit from Falletto) and a Barbaresco (a mix of Gallina and Santo Stefano). Before long, this culminated into the release of vineyard-designated wines, starting in 1967, at a time when few producers saw the winds of change on the horizon. Along with producers like Angelo Gaja and Alfredo Currado (Vietti), Bruno Giacosa began to pave the way for Barolo and Barbaresco as we know it today.
The one thing that he didn’t have was his own vineyards. Even with Bruno’s skills of sourcing the best fruit, he watched as farmers became winemakers, making the best vineyard sources more difficult to acquire. Without skipping a beat, and always ahead of the curve, Bruno purchased his first vineyard in 1982, the one which he has been accredited for making famous: Falletto di Serralunga. Over the years, he would go on to buy more parcels, taking pieces of Asili and Rabaja in Barbaresco; yet through that time, Bruno continued to source fruit, but only when it was up to his standards. Many Barolo collectors lament over the loss of Giacosa-bottled Villero and Vigna Rionda–and in more modern times, Santo Stefano.
However, it was Bruno’s quest for the utmost quality that drove him to create the wines that we know and love today. In the greatest vintages, we would be treated to the release of his epic red label riservas. In the poor vintages, Bruno would simply declassify his fruit and sell the juice in bulk. To this day, lovers of Barolo and Barbaresco hunt for leads that could explain where this wine went to.
As for the style that defines the house of Giacosa, it is often referred to as traditional. Yet this is by no means a stark traditionalist approach. Instead, Bruno wanted to make great Barolo. The broadest way to describe this approach is with macerations around 30 days long, fermenting in stainless steel with moderate temperatures, and aging in large Botti of French origin. That said, I’ve heard stories of this approach varying over time. But does that really matter? In my opinion, it does not, because the fact remains that these are some of the greatest wines that were ever made from throughout the region.
Unfortunately, Bruno suffered a stroke in 2006, which was followed by the temporary loss of his highly talented oenologist, Dante Scaglione. With her father’s health in decline, Bruna Giacosa (Bruno’s daughter) stepped up to the mantel, and what followed was a period of unevenness. However, with Dante back in the winery, Bruno back on his feet, and his daughter at his side, I have high hopes that the Bruno Giacosa winery will be back on top once again.
This all leads to December 12th, 2016, at a restaurant in New York City named DeGrezia, where a table full of some of the most passionate Barolo collectors I know, Antonio Galloni among us, built our lineup of Bruno Giacosa. The tasting nearly spanned Giacosa’s entire history, from the inaugural vintage all the way to 2008. You can imagine the anxiety that filled us all, even weeks before the event. I can attest to my own personal health, which had been in decline the previous week, and how hard I worked to get myself back into condition, because this was not a tasting to miss. In fact, this was the experience of a lifetime.
On to the tasting notes:
1961 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Riserva Speciale – Sourced from the Gallina and Santo Stefano vineyards, the ‘61 Barbaresco was unexpectedly youthful and exuberant, showing a touch of volatility that contributed to its raciness. On the nose, I was greeted to a vibrant display of sweet florals and spices, gaining richness with time in the glass, adding dried orange, cedar and hints of dusty vanilla. On the palate, I found silky textures combined with racy acidity, showing dried cherry, mint and inner floral tones. The finish was long yet juicy, as saturating spice and red berry tones lingered long. Frankly, you’d never guess this wine’s age. (94 points)
1964 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Riserva (Falletto) – Having had the pleasure of tasting this during three different phases of its time open in bottle, I was at first greeted to a bouquet of dried flowers, dusty earth and parchment. Over the course of hours, the nose gained a deeper and dark persona, as dried black cherry, undergrowth and a slight musty aroma took hold. Yet hours later, the fruit came to the front, becoming more blue and black than red, with a exotic spiciness. On the palate, dark, pliant textures made themselves known, ushering in silky waves of dried fruit, herbs, dark soil and minerals. It was still youthful in its vibrancy, yet perfectly mature in tannin, finishing on iron-tinged minerality and with a sense of perfect balance. (95 points)
1967 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Asili Riserva – The ‘67 was beautiful in its maturity, as a wave of dusty earth, dried florals, minerals and a hint of caramel lifted from the glass. On the palate, it was zesty, displaying a mix of savory minerals, dried herbs and hints of worn spice. The finish was shorter than I’d hoped, yet still wonderfully balanced and refined, with a lingering hint of citrus, red berry and dried inner florals. (91 points)
1978 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Santo Stefano – In a word… spellbinding. The ’78 Barbaresco Santo Stefano took all of the lifted floral, cherry, minerals and spice that we love about this wine in its youth and transported them gracefully over 38 years of maturity to form a feminine, elegant wine of purity. It was a pleasure to drink, yet all I needed to truly enjoy it was the ability to take in its bouquet over and over again. Bright red floral fruits and dusty spices led to a palate with silky-soft textures and saturating dried berry tones. A hint of tannin still resonated through the finish, along with mouth-puckering acidity and notes of leather, cedar and inner floral tones. Stunning! (95 points)
1979 Bruno Giacosa Barolo – The ‘79 Barolo was completely mature yet still quite enjoyable. Here I found a nose of dusty potpourri, dried cherry and a hint of parchment. On the palate, lifted, feminine textures gave way to tart red berry and hints of cedar. It was persistent, yet a bit linear, ending with medium length and a bitter twang of tart red fruit. (90 points)
1980 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Le Rocche di Castiglione – The ‘80 Rocche displayed a fully mature bouquet of tart dried berries, orange peel, hints of caramel and iodine. On the palate, I found savory and herbal-infused remnants of red berry with hints of cedar and spice. A wave of acidity maintained freshness throughout and paved the way for a pleasurable finale of dried berries and earth tones. (92 points)
1985 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Le Rocche di Castiglione – What started as a vegetal nose of cucumber and herbs quickly evolved into a wonderful display of crushed strawberry, brown spice, earth and dried roses. On the palate, I found soft textures with a rich display of spicy crushed cherry, which was pumped up by a pulse of vibrant acidity and mineral thrust. It finished on dried red berry, which coated the palate and slowly faded to minerals and earth. (94 points)
1986 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Le Rocche di Castiglione – The nose was dark and massive, with plush notes of black cherry, sweet herbs, earth followed by hints of almond, celery and dried cedar. On the palate, I found vibrant, acid-driven textures overlaying rich dark red fruit, with hints of balsamic, smoke and spice. This finish was shorter than I’d hope yet left a sense of utter balance and remnants of minerality. (93 points)
1989 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Villero – The ‘89 Villero opened with a funky earth, mushroom and mineral-driven bouquet, yet quickly evolved in the glass to reveal bright red fruit with rosy florals, undergrowth and spice. On the palate, I found soft, silky textures, which seemed to touch upon all of the senses, as notes of undergrowth seemed to carry over from the bouquet, leading to ripe cherry, spice, cedar, and a slight grip of still youthful tannin. It finished youthful with dried cherry, minerals and hints of exotic spice. With the exception of a slightly dirty quality on the nose, this was exceptional. (95 points)
1989 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto Riserva – The ‘89 Falletto didn’t perform as well as past bottles I’ve experienced, as it seems it may have been poorly stored at one point in its life. The nose showed minerals up front, along with dried berries, spiced orange and notes of undergrowth. On the palate, I found dark, almost murky, red fruits with notes of coffee grinds, sweet spice and moderate tannins. A roasted sensation lingered, as it finished on briny minerality. (NA)
1996 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Falletto – This opened with a beautiful and exuberant display of wild berry, dusty spice, rose, licorice, crushed stone minerality and smoke. On the palate, I found angular textures with youthful tannin, yet its vibrant spiced-cherry fruit maintained a wonderfully drinkable persona. It finished on palate-coating tart red berries, tar and leather tones with hints of lingering mineral-infused tannin. (95 points)
1996 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Asili Riserva – My love of Giacosa’s Asili seems to grow deeper and deeper with every taste. Here I found an earthy and seductive bouquet of savory herbs and seared meat, which transformed to crushed berries, plum, roses and hints of moist soil. On the palate, I found soft textures contrasted by youthful tannin, as vibrant dark-red fruit filled the senses, along with, earthy minerals, anise and bitter balsamics. The finish was youthfully dry, yet dense red fruits prevailed, promising many years of development. What a beautiful wine. (96 points)
2000 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Le Rocche Riserva – The ‘00 Rocche was simply seductive with an alluring bouquet and enveloping on the palate. Here I found a dark and inviting mix of crushed cherry and strawberry with sweet spices. On the palate, soft textures gave way to floral-infused cherry, as hints of leather and earth tones filled the senses. The finish was long with a yin-and-yang of sweet red fruits and a bitter twang of spice and herbs. Although this came across as a bit roasted, it was still so easy to like. (94 points)
2001 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Rabaja Riserva – Where to begin with this elegant beauty of a wine? The nose was a dark and exotic beauty which filled the senses with aromas of cinnamon-tinged black cherry, brown spices, tobacco, dusty florals, and tar. A massive wave of dark fruit swept across the palate, delivering saturating fine tannin with notes of leather, cedar and exotic spice. The long finish lingered with resonating tart red berry, spice and a coating of fine tannin. The is a gorgeous wine with marvelous balance and decades of evolution ahead of it. (97 points)
2004 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Asili Riserva – The ’04 Asili was firing on all cylinders tonight. One of the first wow wines of the tasting, and it stayed with me throughout the entire evening. Almost impossible to take my nose from the glass, with a mix of fresh herbal-tinged cherry, exotic florals, minerals and green olive. On the palate, it was rooted in the earth, layered, and showing masses of structured depth, as saline-minerality paved the way for dried cherry, leather and iron. It finished unbelievably fresh on a note of cherry pits with hints of spice and fine tannin. There’s so much potential here, as my last comment to my fellow tasters was, “why don’t I have this wine in my cellar?” (98 points)
2007 Bruno Giacosa Barbaresco Asili Riserva – The ‘07 Asili was so easy to like, taking the ripeness of the vintage and combining it perfectly with the house style. Here I found a bouquet of sweet florals and spice, with hard red candies and the slightest hint of undergrowth. On the palate, I found intense dark red fruits ushered in by angular, weighty textures. Vibrant acidity mixed with grippy tannins, which provided the perfect contrast to the ‘07’s warm vintage persona. It finished long on spicy red berries, bitter cherry and spice. (94 points)
2008 Bruno Giacosa Barolo Le Rocche Riserva – (served blind) This is one of those moments where you consider the score versus the cost, and you have to question whether one should affect the other. The controversial ‘08 Rocche was served blind, and it was clear that it was Nebbiolo. What was not clear was where it was from, and no one would have guessed Giacosa Riserva. The nose showed ripe cherry with a dusting of spice and dried orange. On the palate, I found tart red fruits with saturating minerality and a zing of fresh acidity. Youthful tannin coated the senses, drying the palate and finishing on notes of spice and cedar. (90 points)
Article, Tasting Notes, and Photos by Eric Guido
Somehow this year got away from me. As I sat down to think about a new blog, it suddenly dawned on me–that it’s time for my top wines of 2016.
This year was without a doubt the most epic, diverse and in-depth year for tasting of my entire career. Over the course of the last 11 months, I’ve logged over 800 tasting notes, and that is without transposing the majority of substandard performing wines from paper to computer. What’s more, I still have an entire notebook of tasting notes from my trip to Burgundy this summer, where my tastings of the 2014 and 2015 vintages have yet to be recorded from shorthand. In the end, there’s only so much time in a day and in a year. That said, (with the exception of Burgundy barrel tasting), each and every wine from the daily drinking variety up to the absolute unicorn wine–a once in a lifetime experience–has been recorded.
This year was full of amazing tastings and experiences. Beyond Burgundy, I also traveled to Italy to taste with winemakers and professionals from around the world at Collisioni. I was fortunate to host a number of the world’s top names in wine at multiple dinners and events through Morrell. And of course, there is my local Barolo tasting group, which is one of the best groups of people and collectors that I have ever known. As a group, we were able to assemble a number of epic tastings, including Giuseppe Mascarello, Bartolo Mascarello, plus 1996, 2001, and 2004 vintage retrospectives. All of this has culminated into my top wines of 2016. Every region, every style, and vintages spanning a lifetime were all given a fair shake, and the results are below.
Whenever one of these wines was available, they were added to Morrell’s inventory, but I apologize that some could simply not be acquired. That said, this is a list about my favorite wines of 2016, not my favorite wines that we sell. I have added many of these wines to my own wine cellar and continue to pursue a number of the more elusive items.
Lastly, I want to thank the readers who have reached out and taken the time to extend their gratitude to me over the years. Frankly, it’s often a daunting task to take the time to photograph and take notes on nearly every wine you taste. The desire to sit back and enjoy the simple pleasure of these wines and dinners, without cataloging the finer details, is high. To the readers who have extended their thanks for what I do, I am sincerely in your debt, because without that vote of confidence, I would not be able to do this.
Thank you, and Enjoy!
On to the tasting notes:
There was no question in my mind about this top value white wine. We always hear the comparisons of, this is the white Burgundy of Italy, California, Spain, and on and on. Well, in this case, this really is the White Burgundy of Mount Etna. What Marco De Grazia has achieved with the ‘14 Santo Spirito Bianco is nothing short of magical. To think that this wine only costs $35 is unbelievable. Open this wine, and watch it evolve over the course of hours. You will not be disappointed.
2014 Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Bianco Santo Spirito – Another fantastic showing, with a rich display of ripe pear, spring flowers, almond, mineral-tinged citrus and a hint of vanilla. On the palate, I found silky, medium-weight textures with creamy white peach, mango, ripe melon and refreshing acidity. The finish was long, with palate-saturating tropical fruit, kiwi citrus and sweet cream. (94 points) Find it at Morrell Wine!
Since I tasted the 2013 Tiberio Montepulciano in Italy this summer, I kind of knew it would make this list. Frankly, I’d have to work hard to come up with a better quality-to-price ratio wine than this. Most people who know Italian wine know that Montepulciano can be a great value, but Tiberio took it to an all-new level. The purity and sensuality of this wine is undeniable, and to think that it retails at $17. Open it up, give it a short decant, and indulge. I’ve bought it by the case for my own cellar, and I strongly urge you to do the same.
2014 Tiberio Montepulciano d’Abruzzo – The nose showed rich cherry and forest, woodland notes, with a hint of undergrowth, subtle spice and minerals. On the palate, I found silky, mid-weight textures with saturating, fleshy black cherry, firmed up by a coating of minerals and fine tannin. It finished with dried cherry, licorice and inner dried floral tones. Gorgeous purity. (92 points) Find it at Morrell Wine!
I’ve been talking about Jérôme Bressy for the last two years, and now having tasted many vintages of the the Vaucluse Rouge, I firmly believe that the 2013 may be the best wine he’s ever produced. Jérôme is the mast of the Rasteau, even if his wines are no longer able to be labeled as such by law. However, it doesn’t matter, because his name has gained notoriety over the entire region. If you’re looking for the new up-and-coming Icon of France, you may be looking right at it with a bottle of Gourt de Mautens on the table.
2013 Domaine Gourt de Mautens (Jérôme Bressy) Vaucluse Rouge – It’s not often that I open a note with an enthusiastic “Wow”, but the 2013 Gourt de Mautens deserves such praise. The bouquet opened with an intense display of white pepper, crush mint (or is that basil), rosemary, moist earth and hints of sweet brown spice. On the palate, it was impossibly soft and enveloping to all of the senses, yet vibrant with a display crushed violets, black fruit, and savory olive. Tannins mounted toward the finish, as the wine resonated on peppery spices and a resounding note of black olive. I can’t wait to see where this wine is going over time. (96 points) Coming Soon to Morrell Wine!
And then there’s Burgundy, and this year’s top wine is both exceptional in its quality and an amazing relative value. I say that, because even at $100 a bottle, the 1er Cru La Forest from Dauvissat can run laps around the competition. This is white burgundy at its best and with many years of development in store for us.
2012 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru La Forest – The nose was tight, taut and lithe at first, with seashore-inflected mineral tones out front, followed by green apple and hints of lime, yet with time it began to blossom as floral tones arose, along with pear and crushed stone. On the palate, it was a bundle of energy, yet wrapped tight and angular in its youthful state, showing inner floral tones, lemon, apple and saline-minerality. The finish was fresh with vibrancy, lending a last mouthwatering burst of green apple. This was a tremendous experience, having followed the 2012 for an entire day; it simply continued to steadily open more and more. (95 points)
The 2015 vintage in Germany will prove to America that this is a wine-producing country to be reckoned with. While I’m usually a bigger fan of the drier styles of Riesling, there is no denying that the categories of Kabinett, Spatlese and Auslese truly excelled in 2012. The property of Donnhoff is one that everyone should know already, and their Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Spätlese is easily one of my top wines of the year.
2015 Dönnhoff Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese – The ‘15 Hermannshohle Spat was off the charts, with a bouquet of spiced florals, sweet sliced apple, crushed stone and hints of fresh ginger. On the palate, it was layered and intense yet still lifted, with saturating notes of lemon curd, spiced apple, minerals and electrifying acidity. It finished fresh and long with lingering notes of citrus and minerals. This wine has decades of development ahead of it. (96 points) Find it at Morrell Wine!
If you love Barolo and haven’t realized that 1999 is quickly becoming one of the greatest vintages of the last 30 years, then now’s the time to start tasting. It’s remarkable to think about how many ‘99s have performed well beyond expectations. As for Bartolo Mascarello, which was tasted in a vertical of Cantina Mascarello, the wine is truly magical.
1999 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo – What a pleasure it was to enjoy the ‘99 once again. It’s a truly great wine in the making. Here I found a bouquet of mineral-infused, dark red berry fruit with hints of sweet herbs and spice. With time, dusty floral tones came to the fore. On the palate, a focused wave of red berry fruit with acid and mineral-driven tenacity splashed against the senses, leaving inner dried floral tones and hints of fine tannin. It finished structured and classic, with tart red fruits and dried spice. This was a gorgeous showing, and it’s a wine that anyone who loves Bartolo must have in their cellar. (97 points)
To all of the Scavino naysayers, you can skip this wine, and leave more for the rest of us. What it comes down to is that the Scavino style has changed dramatically over the last 15 years, yet many people still associate them with the modern stylings of the ‘90s. However, the reality is that they are making some of the best wine in the region today, and the 2010 Rocche dell’Annunziata is a testament to what they can accomplish.
2010 Paolo Scavino Barolo Riserva Rocche dell’Annunziata – The bouquet was haunting in its mix of dark fruit with sweet and savory herbs. Earth tones, dried roses and crushed stone minerality developed in the glass. On the palate, I found soft and enveloping textures, contrasted by spice and mineral-laden red fruit, tobacco, vibrant acidity, and a coating of sweet tannin that saturated the senses. It finished long and structured, resonating on dried cherry and minerals. This is a gorgeous expression of Rocche dell’Annunziata. (96 points) Find it at Morrell Wine!
It’s no secret that I love Fontodi Vigna del Sorbo. This is a wine that I’ve been collecting for years, yet I seriously wish I had started much sooner. Earlier this year, a group of fellow collectors assembled a massive vertical of Vigna del Sorbo, and the wine of the night was easily the 1999. If you can find it from a good source, this is a world-class wine that is still seriously undervalued.
1999 Fontodi Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo – The ‘99 is classic in every sense of the word. Today it still comes across as young, yet there is a balance of fruit, tannin and acid that makes it seductive and easily enjoyable. The bouquet was pure class, showing haunting dark floral aromatics followed by black cherry, strawberry, spice and a hint of undergrowth. On the palate, I found fleshy textures, with a core of sweet tannin and brisk acidity lending vibrancy. Black cherry, spice and minerals were all on display in this perfectly balanced beauty. It finished long and intense, still showing youthful structure and promising years of development down the road. (97 points)
One of my biggest takeaways from tastings in 2016 is that Washington state has really come a long way. This year, I was able to taste through multiple vintages and across a broad spectrum of producers. What I came to find is that California may have a new competitor for our Cabernet spending. What’s even more enticing is how good the entry-level wines are at these estates. The Andrew Will Columbia Valley is a perfect example. I’d be hard pressed to find a better Cabernet for the money.
2014 Andrew Will Cabernet Sauvignon – The ‘14 Columbia Valley Cab is just stunning today. Here I found rich dark fruits and spice cake mixed with wild herbs and floral undergrowth in a truly alluring performance. On the palate, soft textures gave way to exotic spice and hard red candies with a hint of tannin that provided perfect grip. The finish showed a bit of austerity, yet its focused fruit and balance kept things fun and urged me to take another sip. (92 points)
It can often be difficult to justify the prices of new-release cult wines from Napa Valley, but in the case of the 2012 Bond Vecina, I totally get it. Bond has been working hard to establish the importance of terroir throughout their range, and if it’s taught me one thing, it’s that Vecina is my favorite Cru from their lineup. This is a wine of such power, intensity and potential that it’s hard not to start stockpiling it in my own cellar.
2012 Bond Vecina – The nose on the ‘12 Vecina was deep and layered, and it required a bit of coaxing before it sprang to life. Here, I found intense dark red fruit, balanced by dusty earth, wild floral perfumes and stunning minerality. On the palate, I found silky textures delivering formidable weight and tannic clout, as a wave of massive dark fruit swept across the senses, leaving notes of cocoa, dried herbs, and confectionary spice in its wake. The finish was long with notes of tobacco, dark chocolate and sweet herbs. I simply didn’t want this glass to ever empty. The ‘12 Vecina is simply stunning! (98 points)
I was caught completely off guard by the 1986 Murrieta Ygay Gran Reserva Blanco. I had expected it to be an overhyped wine that couldn’t possibly live up to the praise it was receiving–until I tasted it. Make no mistake, it’s quite expensive, but when you consider the amount of time and care that went into creating this wine and how good it truly is, it all starts to make sense.
1986 Marqués de Murrieta Rioja Castillo Ygay Gran Reserva Especial Blanco – There are so many layers and with each tip of the glass, the bouquet seems to change. The hardest part about the ’86 Ygay Blanco is not drinking it too fast. There’s amazing depth on the palate with dense textures, yet vibrant and lifted, playing a sweet-and-sour act on the senses. Minerals, stone fruits, young pineapple, crushed flowers, mushroom, brie, savory herbs…it goes on and on. (97 points) Find it at Morrell Wine!
Top Dessert Wine
To be frank, every time I taste Ben Ryé, I question why I’m not buying it by the case. This is without a doubt one of the greatest dessert wines being made in the world today. If you’ve never tasted one, then you must do whatever it takes to correct that mistake. For what Ben Ryé costs, versus the pleasure it provides, there is no better option.
2008 Donnafugata Passito di Pantelleria Ben Ryé Edizione Limitata – What an incredible nose, starting with spiced orange, mango, and dried peaches, then turning to dried flowers, exotic spices and honey. On the palate, I found rich, luxurious textures, yet perfectly fresh, with ripe stone fruits, dried orange, clove, allspice, white cherry and hints of mango. It was incredibly long on the finish with notes of raisin, dried peaches, apricot…frankly, you can go on and on and on. (96 points)
Blind tasting is the ultimate equalizer, and nothing proved this to me more than an evening spent with a number of collectors with the theme of “bring one of your best bottles blind”. All of the wines on the table were special, but the ‘85 Haut-Brion was on another level.
1985 Château Haut-Brion – Descriptors are almost meaningless on the ’85 Haut Brion, as the wine was nearly perfect. The nose was dark and rich, showing red and blackberry fruits, smoke, animal musk, minerals and a distinct note of menthol. On the palate, it was like silk drawn across your senses, and it was perfectly balanced with rich dark fruit, inner floral tones, and pronounced saline-minerality. The finish was long with dried cherry, minerals, smoke and hints of spice. This is a drop-dead gorgeous, mature Haut Brion that was hard to put down—and it’s in a perfect place today. (98+ points)
Article, Photos and Tasting Notes by: Eric Guido
After fifteen years of tasting Barolo, I can’t think of any other producer whose wines create both a stir of excitement and a cringe of anxiety as much as the Barolo of Giuseppe Mascarello. There, I said it. The fact is that I can think of no other producer who is as widely loved, yet who also demonstrates such a large degree of variability. The love of Giuseppe Mascarello’s wines, especially Monprivato, runs so deeply that collectors are willing to forgive the high percentage of failed bottles and worries that accompany the decision to open one.
Unfortunately, the reason behind this variability remains unclear to me. Going back over the years, it’s interesting to follow my comments on these wines. If I go back far enough, I would always question why they seemed to never be ready to drink. Then there would be the off bottle, and then another off bottle. However, somewhere in the middle of all of this would be an outstanding performance from one of his wines that would send chills down your spine, hence the reason that we continue to buy Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo.
Another thing I’ve noticed is that the more recent vintages seem much easier to appreciate in their youth. Going back five or more years, I wouldn’t dream of opening a Monprivato before the age of twenty; yet today, we are enjoying the 2004 and 2005 vintages. Without any talk of a change in style or vineyard practices, it’s hard to know what is creating these changes, but as our recent tasting showed, when Giuseppe Mascarello is on–IT’S ON!
Founded in 1881, Giuseppe Mascarello is renowned as one of the classic traditional producers of Barolo. The family started as tenant farmers, who took advantage of the opportunity to purchase a large portion of the Monprivato vineyard in 1904. Over the last century, the Mascarellos have continued to slowly acquire more parcels, and it is thought that they now control over 93% of the vineyard. Today, Monprivato is almost a monopole of the Mascarello family, as no other producer bottles its fruit as a single vineyard. You would need to look all the way back to 1990 for the last Monprivato made by another producer, and that’s the 1990 Brovia Monprivato, which we were lucky enough to have at this tasting.
The Monprivato vineyard is quite unique and visually stands out when surveying the surroundings of Castiglione Falletto. For one thing, the average vine age is 55 years old (quite old for this region), but then there is also its white calcareous soils with a good amount of limestone strewn throughout. The combination of these two attributes makes Monprivato hard to miss.
From Monprivato, Mauro Mascarello (the current owning family member) makes two wines. One is the namesake and iconic Monprivato, which was first produced in 1970 when Mauro realized that the quality of the vineyard justified its own bottling. The other is Ca’ d’Morissio (named for Mauro’s Grandfather), who had the original idea to use clonal selection to begin replanting portions of Monprivato with the rare michet clone. Today, Ca’ d’Morissio (made entirely from the michet clone and from old vines) stands as a towering bottle in both stature and price, yet if you are ever given the chance to taste it, do not hesitate.
This brings us to today and a group of fellow collectors from the Vinous forum, who have been talking about building a Giuseppe Mascarello vertical. As we were short one of the pillars of our group, (we missed you, Ken V.) the lineup was missing the icon ‘89 Monprivato, but with this group, you never have to worry about great vintages being placed on the table. We managed to amass vintages that spanned 45 years’ worth of G. Mascarello Barolo, starting with the ‘61 and ‘64 (which were made with a large portion of Monprivato), then leading into the first Monprivato, the 1970. We finished with the 2006, an amazing wine in the making.
On to the tasting notes:
1961 Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Riserva – The nose was sweet and spicy with notes of raisin, dried-spicy citrus rind, and a note of sweet roasted pecan. It gained freshness with air, yet oxidation had taken hold, as this has already seen its best years. On the palate, it was soft and fleshy with notes of dried cherry, dried strawberry, leather and minerals. It finished long on soil tones and minerality. (92 points)
1964 Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Riserva – The bouquet was remarkably similar to the ‘61 served before it, adding rosy medicinal cherry and animal musk to the sweetly spiced citrus notes. On the palate, an elevated bump of acidity defined its zesty and persistent performance, yet it lacked the elegance and purity of the best bottles. Dried red berry, leather and minerals lingered on the finish, marred by a slight bitterness. (88 points)
1970 Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato – In gorgeous form and still with many years of life left, the 1970 Monprivato was a dark, earthy and perfectly mature expression of Barolo. The bouquet was an earthy mix of moist soil, animal musk, parchment, worn leather, and dried strawberry. On the palate, I found an elegant expression with silky textures and a perfect balance of acid and still-lively tannin. Notes of dried cherry, minerals and a hint of tart citrus filled the senses and lasted into the long finish, along with a hint of inner dried florals. I wish I could have spent hours with this wine. (93 points)
1982 Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato – Here I found a darker and richer expression of Monprivato with notes of dried cherry, undergrowth, dusty earth, hints of mint and dried flowers. On the palate, broad fleshy textures were wonderfully offset by zesty acidity, as black cherry and minerals seemed to saturate the senses. It finished long and mouthwatering, yet perfectly mature. (94 points)
1990 Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato – And then the 1990 hit the table! It’s been five years since I last tasted the ‘90, and it has certainly improved in that time. Here I found and intensely dark and brooding wine. Masculine to be sure, with a nose of ripe strawberry, dried cherries, tobacco, exotic spice, spiced apple and a hint of orange zest. On the palate, I found silky, pure textures with dark spiced cherry, balsamic tones, earth, leather and zesty acidity. Hints of tannin lingered on the long finish, along with tart red berries. There’s so much energy here. (96 points)
1990 Brovia Barolo Monprivato – The nose showed dusty rosy florals, dried strawberry, mineral-stone, tar and dark earth. On the palate, I found feminine, lifted textures with stimulating acidity, coming across as angular, with a stern minerality and crystalline red berry fruits. It finished structured yet energetic, not showing any heat from the vintage. It’s a very classy wine, with more upside potential that most 1990s. (93 points)
1996 Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato – The nose showed black cherry, sweet spice, ironborn minerals, tobacco and dried roses. On the palate, it displayed persistent tart cherry fruit that saturated the senses, along with minerals and savory herbs. Both tannins and acidity were in perfect balance, creating a chiseled expression, leading into a tense and structured finish with saturating tart cherry. There’s a perfect symmetry to the ‘96 Monprivato, which placed it as one of my top wines of the night. (94 points)
1999 Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato – Unfortunately Flawed. (I included a tasting note of a ‘99 opened a year ago; However, it’s important to note that the bottle I had previous to that one was flawed as well. Following is the original note from the previous bottle). Back to form after my last bottle, the 1999 Monprivato was classic and refined, with a nose full of dried cherry, dusty spice, undergrowth, minerals, and rosy floral notes. On the palate, it was angular and austere, yet the potential in this wine lurks right below the surface, with notes of dried cherry, dark chocolate, balsamic tones and minerals hinting at a bright future. Staying red fruit saturated the senses throughout the finish, along with inner floral notes, dried leaves and soil. Wow! (96 points)
2001 Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato – As the 2001 Monprivato matures, it’s clear to me that it’s one of the vintage standouts. It doesn’t impress for its power as much as it does for its poise and refinement. The bouquet displays an expression of bright, lifted cherry and strawberry tones, with sweet florals, mint tea and a hint of citrus. On the palate, feminine textures mixed with caking minerality, bright strawberry fruits, and inner floral tones created a very pretty expression, as mild tannin set in and reminded me of its youthful state. It appears that the ‘01 will always be a lighter and prettier version of Monprivato, yet with the persistence to mature with decades. (93 points)
2004 Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato – Here I found a beautiful expression of mineral-laden cherry (a touch medicinal), dusty florals, dried citrus, and spice. It was lifted and feminine on the palate, showing silky textures with pure red fruits, saline-minerality, inner floral tones and hints of citrus. The finish was refined and soft with remnants of dried cherry and inner floral tones, which gave way to a coating of fine tannin. (94 points)
2006 Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato – Tasting the 2006 on this night, with the ‘82 and the ‘90 on the table, gave me the impression that it may one day mature into something that would fall somewhere in between these two great wines. The bouquet was dark and rich, but with soaring floral tones and lifting minerality, Black cherry, sweet herbs and hints of undergrowth filled the senses. On the palate, I found a brooding, massive wine that was barely restrained by youthful tannin, with silky broad textures and saturating dark red fruits. It had a way of being powerful and refined all at the same time, finishing of dried cherry and inner floral tones. (95 points)
Article, Tasting Notes and Photos by Eric Guido
When I think back to my exploration of Brunello di Montalcino, the first thing that comes to mind is how quickly I realized that there were wines that I thought were good, ones I thought were very good, and then there was Poggio di Sotto. Literally on another level from all others that I had tasted, Poggio di Sotto had a way of creating Brunello that spoke more to me of Grand Cru Burgundy than it did of Brunello. These ethereal specimens of Brunello thrilled me at every turn and became the wine I bought in every vintage. Because even when they weren’t blockbusters from the top vintages, they still provided me with a level of satisfaction that I couldn’t find anywhere else.
Unfortunately, the owner of Poggio di Sotto, Piero Palmucci, decided to sell the property back in 2011, and suddenly something seemed to be lost. Vintages from 2007 and on lacked that magical thrill that captivated me.
For years, I was searching for another Brunello that could provide me with that same level of satisfaction, and honestly (outside of paying for Soldera), I was beginning to wonder if I would ever find it.
Then the day came that I tasted my first Stella di Campalto.
Stella would tell you that the location of Stella di Campalto chose her, as her passion for the land and culture turned into a love for Sangiovese, and with time, Brunello di Montalcino. Being a neighbor of Poggio di Sotto, she was also fortunate to find a friend and mentor in Piero Palmucci, who she describes as the winemaker who whipped her into shape. This makes a lot of sense when you taste a wine from Stella di Campalto, as they have that same magic that drew me to Poggio di Sotto for so many years.
The property consists of 16 hectares, where Stella tends to olive groves, fruits, vegetables, and of course, Sangiovese. With vineyards that she planted in 1998, Stella produced her first Rosso in 2001. By the 2004 vintage, she began to bottle Brunello. Her approach in the vineyards began as organic, but over time the draw of biodynamic practices captured her attention and continues to this day. Stella farms six different parcels of Sangiovese, which are all tended to and picked according to their natural attributes. In the winery, the wines are fermented with natural yeasts in large upright wooden vessels before being transferred to neutral small French and Austrian oak.
There are no restrictions to the way that Stella makes these wines. In fact, she’ll tell you that the winemaking is instinctual more than anything else. The Brunello typically spends 45 months in oak, but the reality is that it isn’t bottled or released until she believes it is ready. It’s because of this that the release of Stella di Campalto can come a year or more behind the current releases of most producers. Since 2009 Stella has decided to bottle all of her Brunello as Riserva, which she could have done since the start, considering the lengthy aging regimen and late releases of her wine.
What’s even more exciting is that just as Poggio di Sotto had one of the greatest Rosso di Montalcinos (considered better than many producers Brunellos), so does Stella. The Rosso of Stella di Campalto is produced in the same fashion as her Brunello with one difference–it is only aged for 22 months in barrel. Through careful selection, Stella and a group of like-minded producers (some of my favorites by the way) taste through their wines together and decide which barrels will lend the best expression of Brunello or Rosso. The results are amazing. The Rosso di Montalcino of Stella di Campalto is extremely limited and should also be on the short list of any fan of the region.
Recently, I was lucky enough to sit with Stella and taste through a vertical of vintages, starting with the 2004. The tasting was an eye-opening experience. Separately, each of these wines were absolutely spellbinding. Together, they formed a history of this producer’s journey through the production of Brunello. Stella herself is just as charming, if not more so, than the wines she produces, and listening to her speak communicates the passion that she has for the land and the wine.
Simply stated, I can’t recommend these wines highly enough. The term, “buy the producer, not the vintage” is perfectly applied here, as each wine communicated it’s own unique story.
On to the wines: (I also included my most recent tasting note of the 2010, which was not served this day, but completes the picture of Stella’s journey with Brunello)
Stella di Campalto Brunello di Montalcino 2005 – This displayed a stunning and bright mix of dried strawberry, floral undergrowth, fresh herbs and an almost salty-savory minerality. On the palate, it was lifted and feminine with angular textures, yet it never came across as hard or austere; instead the word “interactive” comes to mind. Dried strawberry and minerals lasted throughout its long finish. (93 points)
Stella di Campalto Brunello di Montalcino 2006 – Here I found a dark and imposing bouquet with notes of dried cherry, smoke, crushed stone, charred meat and new leather. On the palate, I found glossy (not polished) textures with dark red persistent fruit, hints of plum, grapefruit and mediterranean herbs. The tension in the glass was impressive, as the ‘06 finished with a long display of minerality, bitter cherry, herbs and youthful tannin. I feel that it’s important to note that Stella refers to the 2006 as her Celine Dion. (95 points)
Stella di Campalto Brunello di Montalcino 2007 – The ‘07 Stella di Campalto takes the ripeness of the vintage and marries it perfectly with the lifted nature of the house style. Here, crushed cherry dominated, yet still with a savory edge, giving way to sweet spice, dried orange peel and floral perfumes. On the palate, I found tart cherry and spice, with masses of sweet inner florals, in a light and feminine expression. The finish displayed tart cherry and savory herbal notes. There was a slight lack of substance here, but it’s a great effort for the vintage. (92 points)
Stella di Campalto Brunello di Montalcino 2008 – The 2008 is the ‘Old Man’ according to Stella. Honestly, I don’t get her meaning, as this was pure class and extremely vibrant in the glass. A dark, rich display of red fruit gave way to wet stone minerality, savory spices, and leather. On the palate, I found silky textures contrasted by vibrant acidity, with persistent red fruits in a tense display that was full of energy and verve. The finish displayed tart red fruits and spice that clung to the senses while mouthwatering acidity worked to wash the palate clean. This is a gorgeous bottle of young Brunello. (94 points) Find it at Morrell
Stella di Campalto Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2009 – In what is easily one of my top wines of the ’09 Brunello vintage, here I found an amazingly fresh display of ripe strawberry, minerals, fresh herbs and dusty floral tones. On the palate, silky-weighty textures delivered masses of ripe dark red fruit with exotic spices, brisk acidity and a bitter twang, which provided depth. The finish was long and juicy–fresh–with notes of strawberry, inner floral tones and herbs. Wow, especially for the vintage. Stella calls this her ‘young artist’. (94 points) Find it at Morrell
Stella di Campalto Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2010 – Where do I start? What defines a Brunello? For the longest time, I would say a classic structure to age would be a point in the corner of a wine this young, yet here I found such a delicate nature and mesmerizing layers, that I’d find it difficult to leave in the cellar for longer than 5-10 years. Coming across more ethereal Burgundy than Brunello, the Stella di Campalto displayed a highly expressive nose, which seemed to continue opening with each tilt of the glass. There was earth, leather, crushed berries, dried flowers—which turned to deep and lively floral tones over time—as well as a savory toastiness, which wasn’t oak but something rich and warming. On the palate, it was soft, caressing, yet brilliantly focused in its ripe red fruits, sweet spice and herbal tones. The most elegant of tannin wrapped around the senses, yet were never drying. It clung to the palate throughout the finish, with saturating dark fruits and fine tannin. (97 points)
And let’s not forget about the Rosso di Montalcino!
Stella di Campalto Rosso di Montalcino 2008 – This is a Rosso? The 2008 Rosso di Montalcino is an outstanding effort with classic bouquet of undergrowth, dusty soil, savory herbs, crushed cherry and exotic floral tones. On the palate, I found weighty-silky textures with ripe cherry, acid infused minerality, and inner floral tones. It finished on red fruits, maybe a bit shorter than desired, yet this is a serious wine deserving of our attention. (92 points)
Article, Photos and Tasting Notes by: Eric Guido
For the longest time, I saw Burgundy as forbidden fruit. I would delve into a premier cru here or an upper-level village wine there. From time to time, a good friend would share something truly special, and I would swoon. As a lover of all things wine, its history, and with the inclination to learn about how each individual terroir creates such unique expressions, Burgundy was always a source of study. However, to study such a vast topic without the practical experience of tasting broadly only makes such a thing more trivial. And so, like many others out there, Burgundy was somewhat untouchable—until the summer of 2016.
Working as a wine director has its ups and downs. One of the ups is, without a doubt, the ability to travel to a region such as Burgundy, taste with over thirty of its top producers, and do so in the company of some of the most knowledgeable Burgundy lovers I’ve ever met. It didn’t hurt that these lovers of Burgundy were also foodies like myself, but that is a story for another time. For now, I’m here to talk about my journey further down the rabbit hole with some of the best Burgundy I’m sure I’ll ever taste.
The organizer of our trip placed us in the perfect location to access both the Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits. We made our home for this trip at the L’Hôtel de Beaune, located within the walled portion of the city and surrounded by an extensive mix of restaurants, wine shops and culture. This provided the perfect launching point for each day and the ideal location to unwind at night.
Having arrived only days after a horrible frost and weeks following a mass hail storm, the thing first and foremost on everyone’s minds was how the 2016 vintage would pan out. With each visit, you could see it on their faces as producers would try to make light of these events, but only so they could alleviate their own fears. We tend to think of the prices of Burgundy and assume that producers are well-compensated for their efforts, but the reality is that the majority of them are small houses that wax and wane with each vintage. Often times, the price of land or the rules of inheritance make their livelihoods very difficult. One bad vintage, one short vintage, or one lost vintage can be enough to sink even the most highly regarded Domaines.
2014: The Insiders Vintage
Tasting barrel after barrel, one thing that becomes immediately apparent is that the 2014 vintage created wines that speak to our hearts and minds. With a slight preference for the whites over reds, there’s no denying that 2014 has produced some of the most brilliantly sculpted and refined examples that we are sure to ever see. The reds will impress early with medium-term cellaring, and may even not make old bones, as they absolutely thrilled us with their purity and chiseled personalities. As for the whites, they are off the charts and are sure to please a broad audience. The 2014 White Burgundies are all about balance, with a noticeable density of fruit contrasted by stunning minerality and backbone. I for one will be stocking up, as this is one of the most exciting young vintages that I’ve ever tasted.
Looking Forward to 2015
What’s sure to be a critic’s vintage, the 2015s seem to explode from the glass. Their unbridled power and broad-shouldered fruit is sure to settle more as they continue to age in barrel, but clearly 2015 will be a bigger and more fruit-focused vintage. This is a not a bad thing, as the wines possess the focus necessary to impress both upon release and with medium-term cellaring. In fact, we will probably find 2015 to have a long drinking window and to be a vintage that will provide a lot of pleasure for a lot people.
Top Visits, Top Wines
With over thirty visits in seven days, it would be impossible to list them all, yet I’ve done my best to recount the visits that resonated with me the most, without waxing poetic about DRC for the next 2000 words. (And, yes, DRC was the experience of a lifetime.)
Tasting with Pierre Duroche was something of a revelation. Pierre is the 5th generation to run the estate, and with a soft-spoken manner and wine thief in hand, he showed us some of the trip’s best 2015 red Burgundies that we had the pleasure to taste. Each of Pierre’s micro-cuvees from throughout the Gevrey village were stunning, and as we moved up through the Premier and Grand Crus, my opinion was assured that this is one of the next great Burgundy producers in the making.
Wines of note: 2015’s Gevrey Chambertin Village, 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques, and 1er Cru Estournelles St. Jacques. – Domaine Duroche at Morrell
Based in Chassagne-Montrachet, today’s Bernard Moreau is run by Alexandre and Benoit. Alexandre took us from barrel to barrel, touring through their 200 yearold cellar, and tasting all of the current vintages. If there was one thing that I took from this visit, it’s that Bernard Moreau is making some of the best white Burgundy in the market today. What’s more, the 2014s at this address are off the charts. Picking favorites was like splitting hairs.
Wines of note: ‘14 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot, ‘14 1er Cru Les Champs-Gain, and ‘14 1er Cru Grandes Ruchottes. – Bernard Moreau at Morrell
Georges Mugneret Gibourg
Arriving at Mugneret Gibourg in Vosne-Romanée, and peeking out the back door at the sprawling vineyards of the village heading down to the D974, is a moment that I will never forget. I could practically feel the energy of this location welling up through the ground. We were greeted by Marie-Christine, who took us down into the cellars and began to pour glass after glass, both ‘14s from tank and ‘15s prepared earlier in bottle. These were some of the greatest young Burgundies I’ve ever tasted. Each wine was pure elegance in a glass, yet infused by the earth. They are simply gorgeous.
Wines of note: ‘14 Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les Chaignots,‘14 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Feusselottes, ‘14 Ruchottes-Chambertin and ‘15 Ruchottes-Chambertin – Georges Mugneret Gibourg at Morrell
Now the third generation winemaker of Marquis D’Angerville, Guillaume d’Angerville greeted us like an old friend as he walked us through the gardens surrounding the estate. D’Angerville is all about Volnay, and we wouldn’t want it any other way. Guillaume led us through a selection of his ‘14s, which were spectacular. The elegance, matched by power and structure of these wines, creates a perfect balance and sense of raw potential.
Wines of note: ‘14 Volnay 1er Cru Les Fremiets, ‘14 Volnay 1er Cru Taillepieds, and ‘14 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs – Marquis D’Angerville at Morrell
Where do you go before your visit at the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti? To taste at Jean Grivot, of course. Our early morning meeting with Etienne at their cellar in Vosne-Romanée was a fantastic way to start the day. The wines of Jean Grivot may have crossed into the realm of price prohibitive, but I firmly believe they are still a good value compared to the company they keep. The ‘14s at this house are in perfect form, and the ‘15s (in mid-malo at the time) were coming along in an exciting trajectory.
Wines of note: ‘14 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts, ‘14 Clos Vougeot, ‘14 Echezeaux, and ‘14 Richebourg – Jean Grivot at Morrell
And so there it is. My trip further down the rabbit hole has left me feeling both anxious to taste these wines again and hoping to add many of them to my cellar. In the end, we all know that the best of Burgundy comes at a premium, but what other wines on earth can incite such emotion and such passion, and what for some becomes a lifelong obsession?
Article, Tasting Notes, and Photos by Eric Guido
For me, a classic vintage is one where the wines will mature into something better that what they are upon release. It is a vintage that makes us proud to house in our cellars, without the fear that they will begin to deteriorate over time.
I still remember one of the first Barolo retrospectives that I had the pleasure of attending. It was 1990 Barolo, and the tasting was held about ten years ago. We left that evening with smiles from ear to ear–the wines were simply stunning. Imagine my surprise when I published my blog about that evening and was met by a large part of the Barolo collecting community that believed we were wrong. Many of these collectors had seen the release of the 1990s, and their belief was that 1990 was a ripe vintage that wouldn’t mature well in their cellars. In many cases, these collectors passed up on the vintage and didn’t have stocks to check in on. I took these responses with a grain of salt, knowing what we had tasted and firmly believing that it was a vintage that was still worth our attention.
Wouldn’t you know that only a year later, Antonio Galloni tasted these wines and gave them a glowing review. Suddenly everyone was looking for 1990 Barolo, and the prices soared. In my mind, that is a classic vintage. You don’t need to be able to will your collection to your children in order for it to be classic. In my opinion, you just need to know that it will improve in bottle and provide decades of positive evolution.
Our most recent tasting of 2004 Barolo was an eye-opening experience. We expected these wines to be as hard as nails. We expected them to bite back. Yet many of them were so good on that night that I would drink them today. Half of them were on the upswing with exceptional purity, while a few seemed to be giving all they could already. Someone at the table asked if we still believed that 2004 was a classic vintage, and to that I answer, YES.
The 2004 vintage was a godsend to the region, as 2002 was nearly a complete wash, and the heat of 2003 turned out a selection of overly-ripe and unbalanced wines. The balanced season of 2004 and perfect weather during harvest created the ideal vintage to create great wines. However, the large size of the crop and preceding bad vintages also tempted some producers to take advantage of the overabundance of fruit and fall short of their usual rigorous selection. I believe much of this is the reason why some of the 2004s seem to be lacking in concentration and intensity that we would expect from a cool ‘classic’ year.
In the end, we can’t judge a vintage on the failings of a number of producers. The fact that the producers who turned out the bulk of the vintage made up a large quantity of the wines released, shouldn’t deter us from paying close attention to those who did the right thing.
As I’ve heard many times in the past and believe wholeheartedly, we should buy the producer, not the vintage. 2004 is the perfect example of why this is so important. And never forget, Barolo has a way of surprising us, so let’s not give up on those less-than-stellar wines. You may one day find them reinvigorated with an unexpectedly long lifespan.
On to the wines: (Served blind and listed in the same order)
Elio Altare Barolo Brunate 2004 – Talk about a perfect way to lead off a retrospective tasting. The 2004 Elio Altare was exceptionally polished and refined, showing ripe strawberry, spice, balsamic and cinnamon. It verged on savory at times and remained intense throughout. On the palate, the textures were soft, yet youthful tannin firmed things up as it traveled across the senses. Dried strawberry and mineral tones lasted throughout as it seemed lifted and finished on a note of dried blackberries. This is a wine that I would love to have in my cellar. (94 points)
Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia 2004 – I was less impressed than I had hoped with the Cascina Francia. Some tasters questioned if it was the bottle, others worried that this was simply the way the wines were bottled. In the end, only time will tell. The nose reminded me of a tobacco shop, with notes of tar, crushed flowers and plum. On the palate, tart red fruit were followed up by souring acidity and lack of follow-through. It finished lighter than expected with dried cherry and light tannin. (88 points)
Aldo Conterno Barolo Barolo Romirasco 2004 – This has always been a very different wine, always showing an exotic profile. On this night, I was less impressed than in previous experiences. Here I found a pretty expression on the nose with sweet spices and dried florals. On the palate, dark red fruits rested upon silky textures with firm tannin that quickly dried the senses. It finished shorter than expected and left an impression of being a more modern-styled wine. I wanted to like it, but something held me back. (91 points)
Giuseppe Mascarello Barolo Monprivato 2004 – The Monprivato proved to be the wine of the night. It was much more open than anyone expected. In fact, its likable personality was the main reason why I didn’t call this wine as being the Monprivato (it was a blind tasting). Here I found sweet florals, dried citrus, cherry and spice. It was remarkably pretty throughout, showing silky yet lifted textures with pure red fruits, saline-minerality, inner floral tones and hints of citrus. The finish was refined, almost juicy at times, then giving way to a coating of fine tannin. Simply gorgeous. (96 points)
Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric del Fiasc 2004 – The 2004 Bric del Fiasc is a solid contender of the vintage and showed the Scavino style in spades. In fact, this was probably the wine that most blind tasters knew from the second they put their nose to the glass. It was intense with dark, earth-infused fruit, intense spice and minerals. It was dark on the palate, where I found an intense display of sour cherry and saturating mineral tones with silky, weighty textures. It finished long, as saturating dark red fruits lingered. (93 points)
Vietti Barolo Brunate 2004 – The nose showed dark, dusty cherry, crushed stone and sweet spices. The oak stood out, but wasn’t overwhelming. On the palate, I found soft textures giving way to dried cherry, mocha and inner floral tones, yet here I also found it to be a bit diluted. The finish was long with palate-coating tannin that seemed more wood influenced than varietal. In the end, it’s still an enjoyable wine. (92 points)
Azelia Barolo Bricco Fiasco 2004 – I was very happy to guess this wine correctly, as it was a perfect representation of the producer and surprised a lot of people at the table. Azelia really got it right in 2004 across the range. Here I found a highly expressive bouquet of dark red fruits, sweet spices, soaring floral tones, crushed stone and savory balsamic. On the palate, it was refined and silky, but with intense dark fruits and vibrant acidity. Silky tannin lingered long on the saturating dark fruit finish. Through all of its intensity, this is a classic in the making and a sure bet for the cellar. (95 points) Find it at: Morrell
Roberto Voerzio Barolo La Serra 2004 – This showed an intense display of dark spices, dried cherry, dusty soil and minerals. On the palate, I found silky-soft textures with vibrant black cherry, spice and grippy tannin. It finished on saturating dark fruits and spice. This may not be the style of Barolo I crave, but it was undeniably enjoyable. (93 points)
Bartolo Mascarello Barolo 2004 – Surrounded by two unapologetic modernists, there’s no wonder that most tasters called this out as Bartolo. The 2004 is a perfect example of how this vintage can confuse a taster, as it’s so beautiful today and unexpectedly approachable. The nose was a mix of pure red fruits, spice and dried flowers. On the palate, it was refined and open with deep red fruits, soft and lifted textures, and inner floral tones. It finished refined and lifted, with only a hint of tannin. (93 points)
Luciano Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis 2004 – The nose showed sweet spices, fresh roses, and bright cherry. On the palate, I found silky, weighted textures with ripe cherry and floral tones. It finished fresh with fine tannin and juicy red fruits and dusty minerals. It may have suffered from being the last wine of the evening, as it seemed almost simple in comparison to many of the wines that came before it. That said, it did stand tall next to the Bartolo Mascarello presented along with it.. (92 points)
Article, Photos and Tasting Notes by: Eric Guido
A special thank you to the team at i Truli for the fantastic meal and service.
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