It’s 2016, and as fans of Barolo and Barbaresco, that means that we have a great reason to organize both 20- and 15-year retrospectives of two of my favorite past vintages, 1996 and 2001. Plans for a ‘96 retrospective are in the works, but today I’d like to share our recently-completed tasting of 2001 Barolo.
2001 is a vintage that has a lot of meaning to me. As a collector, it was the first classic vintage that I could taste on release. Thinking back to those days, and all of the hype surrounding the 2000 vintage, I vividly recall the first of the 2001s arriving. Compared to the 2000s, I couldn’t help but be moved by the ‘01’s sense of refinement and structure. It was the first time that I had witnessed a wine that moved me emotionally, and although they weren’t pleasurable to drink at the time, it was possible to imagine, or forecast, the greatness of these sleeping giants.
The aromatics displayed an intensity of fruit that was held in check by floral, mineral and earth tones. On the palate, we were presented with a glimpse of their potential as a pure core of razor-like focused fruit that steamrolled across the the palate, yet was then quickly smothered as a wave of fine tannin coated the senses. The 2001s were finessed, mid-weight and built for the cellar. At the time, I couldn’t even put these sensations into words, as it took tasting many more structured vintages before I truly understood what I was experiencing.
As I placed these wines into my cellar, I was fully aware that it would be many years before I could consider opening one on the basis of it providing a pleasurably mature experience. I would shake my head in regret each time I read a tasting note on 2001 Barolo, for how could they possibly be ready to drink?
Then in December of 2011, my Barolo tasting group held our first blind 10-year retrospective on the vintage. It was a painful experience. Even as the wines had been decanted much earlier in the day, they were a wall of tannin. We left the experience with palates that were lashed by tannin. Doing my best to report back to readers on the vintage, all I could do was to use the small data-points that I was able to retrieve prior to each wine’s tannic shutdown on my palate. The broad message was that these wines needed more time.
However, what followed were a number of events that cast a worrisome light over the vintage. First was a report from Antonio Galloni of Vinous in 2012 that reported that he had found a high percentage of cork-related issues as he completed his own 2001 retrospective. This was followed by a number of tastings of my own, as well as by fellow collectors, where the wines were found to be overly austere, or in a state where the fruit seemed to be drying as the tannin remained firm and overwhelming.
For years now, we have all worried about the 2001 vintage, and so going into our recent tasting, there was a level of anxiety that was shared by the group. Would these wines confirm our worries or put them back on track to being a youthful yet classic vintage?
I’m very happy to report that it is the former. Our blind 2001 tasting showed a vintage of remarkable character that will continue to mature over the next two or more decades and is just now starting to show its entry into an early drinking window. Are these wines ready to drink? Absolutely not, but with a little coaxing, I’m sure you’ll have the same experience that we did. As for the regiment, each member was instructed to open and double-decant their wine by noon for a tasting that started at 7pm. When it comes to the cork issues that Antonio had experienced, we did have one corked bottle, but these things happen, and it’s difficult to either confirm or deny the problem without tasting a much broader selection of wines.
For the sake of providing a more in depth selection, I have included, with our blind retrospective, a small number of 2001 Barolo that were tasted within the last six months. They have been marked as “Non-Blind!”. Enjoy!
2001 Barolo Retrospective
(This was a blind tasting with capsules removed before bagging. Most wines were double-decanted at noon. Bagging was done with no set order. Attendees knew what wines were present at the table, but they had no information otherwise.)
Aldo Conterno Barolo Granbussia Riserva 2001 – An initial whiff of nail polish remover gave me pause; however, the ‘01 Granbussia came around in the glass to reveal ripe dark-red fruits, sweet herbs, and spice in an intense expression on the nose. On the palate, it displayed silky textures with herbal-infused red fruits and a hint of bitter blackberry. The finish was medium in length and slightly herbal. Having tasted this on a number of occasions, I admit to being surprised by this night’s slightly clumsy performance. (91 points)
Pio Cesare Barolo Ornato 2001 – The nose showed smoky cherry with minerals, dried leaves and hints of savory herbs. It was dark on the palate, driven by minerals and tart black fruits, on a medium-bodied frame with cheek-puckering tannin. It finished on dried cherry and hints of wood. Although this came across as slightly austere, there is some pleasure to be found in its current state of evolution. (92 points)
Conterno Fantino Barolo Sori Ginestra 2001 – The nose was deep in its spice-inflected dark red fruits, spice and earthy mineral tones. On the palate, I was greeted by soft and inviting textures with dark, spicy fruits enveloping sweet tannin. Earth tones emerged over time, as well and minerals and savory herbs. It finished on palate-saturating fruit and a hint of bitterness. (91 points)
Gaja Sperss 2001 – I was greeted by a dark, intense, yet polished bouquet of black cherry, spice, tobacco and sweet herbs. On the palate, brilliant red fruits, exotic spice, and floral tones were contrasted by hints of pine, earth, and fine-grain tannin. The finish was long, yet inward in its tart black fruit and tannin, begging for more time in the cellar. (93 points)
Cavallotto Barolo Riserva Bricco Boschis 2001 – On the nose, I found ripe cherry and minerals with dusty red floral tones, hints of spice and sweet herbs. It was soft and alluring on the palate through its brisk acidity, displaying notes of ripe cherry, plum and earth. Tannins mounted through the experience as the fruit seemed to saturate the senses, turning darker with time, leading into a finish that showed the structured youth of this young Riserva. (93 points)
Brovia Barolo Rocche 2001 – What an intriguing bouquet, as the Brovia Rocche seems to pull you deeper into the glass with its display of undergrowth and crushed stone giving way to charred meats, dark fruit and hints of herbs. On the palate, I found silky textures, firmed up quickly by brisk acidity and youthful tannin, yet still showing focused cherry and strawberry fruit along with inner floral tones. The finish was long, yet youthfully austere with remnants of dried cherry and minerals. (94 points)
Comm. G.B. Burlotto Barolo Monvigliero 2001 – The ‘01 Monvigliero is almost impossible to resist at this stage of its life. On the nose, a display of exotic floral tones, savory herbs and black olive were offset by alluring notes of ripe strawberry fruit and minerality. On the palate, I found soft, velvety textures with fleshy, yet bright and vibrant red fruit, sweet herbs and inner floral tones. It finished on a note of sweet herbal tea and dried strawberry, with fine tannin that was nearly enveloped by it’s juicy and vibrant fruit. This was a real stunner. (94 points)
Cappellano Barolo Piè Rupestris Otin Fiorin (Gabutti) 2001 – The nose displayed airy and lifted red fruit with notes of dusty spice, menthol and licorice wrapped firmly around a mineral core. On the palate, it displayed radiant cherry and pomegranate with hints of spice and firm ’01 tannins, which provided a saturating and concentrated fruit sensation along with grip to spare. The finish resonated on fine tannin and lingering dried cherry and sweet herbs. (94 points) Non-Blind!
Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate Le Coste 2001 – The bouquet was pretty but compact, showing black cherry, dusty soil, licorice, sweet spice and undergrowth. On the palate, it was tightly wound up in its structure, with notes of dried cherry, strawberry fruit, tobacco and savory herbs. It finished tight and restrained with dried fruits lingering long. This really showed the classic structure and tannin of the vintage with brilliant, focused fruit, yet remains many years away from its peak. (95 points) Non-Blind!
Vietti Barolo Rocche 2001 – The ‘01 Rocche was the personification of pure class and elegance. On the palate, I found dark red fruits with a hint of wood, followed by floral rose, sweet herbs and spice. Soft textures eased the senses, while brisk acidity gave life to brilliant cherry fruit, minerals and inner floral tones in a truly elegant expression of Rocche. The finish was long with hints of fine tannin, dried cherry and lasting inner floral tones. If you have the ‘01 Rocche in your cellar, then you’re in for a real treat. If not, then what are you waiting for? (95 points)
Article, photos and tasting notes by: Eric Guido
With the 2015 Bordeaux futures in full swing, It’s gotten me thinking a lot about the world’s most collectible wine. As a wine lover and collector myself, I almost entirely ignored Bordeaux, mainly because of timing. For me, it was the 2005 futures that were being heavily advertised during the formative years of my wine-collecting life. I watched as prices climbed and collectors scurried to buy the very best wines. Many speculated if the inflation could possibly last, while others bought deeply. I, for one, was priced out before I could even jump in. At the time, Italy was my thing, and so Bordeaux got put on the back burner.
Fast forward thirteen years, and I found myself tasting through a large horizontal of 2005 Bordeaux. As I moved from bottle to bottle, I couldn’t help but think about how much of a fool I had been. Not only did I fail to buy these wines upon release, but I also misjudged the market, as the 2005 vintage not only maintained its value, it actually continued to increase. That night, I learned a valuable lesson about the staying power of Bordeaux.
These days, I take advantage of any chance I can get to taste mature Bordeaux, even as the region has seen some decline in popularity over the last few years, I believe Bordeaux is on the verge of a major comeback. All it takes is a tasting of vintages’ past and a little faith, as these are wines that truly belong in the cellar.
So as the 2015 futures continue to trickle out, my advise is to watch them closely; maybe even jump in as I should have all of those years ago. Because if you think that Bordeaux has hit a ceiling, think again. These wines will be pleasing palates and appreciating in value for many decades to come.
About a month ago, I was given the opportunity to taste through a large selection of Bordeaux’s best from recent vintages. Names like Hosanna, Haut Bailly, Palmer, Ducru Beacaillou, Pichon Lalande and Mouton Rothschild all adorned the table. Tasting these young wines was a challenge and maybe even a bit of a shame since they were so far away from maturity. Yet it was the potential that was on display. That tense, tightly coiled fruit, like a freight train across your palate, that leaves a searing score of tannin in it’s wake. It’s that same intensity that tricks you into thinking these wine might be too dry or reticent–but that’s simply what young Bordeaux tends to be.
Then to taste these same wines later in the evening, but instead from vintages that were 10, 15 or even 20 years old–it’s a tasting like this that seals the deal for anyone who’s on the fence with Bordeaux.
As these wines age, they soften. It’s not that they gain volume or weight; instead what time adds to Bordeaux is texture, that and the tertiary aromas and flavors that mature wine is known for. As the youthful tannins recede, that same tightly coiled fruit relaxes, unveiling a sensation like silky being drawn smoothly across the palate. The experience continues to heighten as the wine moves through the incline of its drinking window, which can last for decades. It’s an experience like this that seals the deal for a collector like myself, and it begs the question of why I don’t buy more Bordeaux.
On to the tasting notes:
2005 Château Hosanna – Worth waiting for, the 2005 Hosanna was at first quite coy and ungiving, as members of the group quickly passed it up for the 2000 vintage. Yet as it sat in the glass, an evolution took place that firmly placed this wine as one of the best of the evening. The nose showed dark red and blue fruits, along with savory herbs and gravel dust. On the palate, a core of crushed raspberry and currant saturated the senses and left notes of dark chocolate and savory herbs. The finish seemed to go on for over a minute, along with a coating of fine tannin that should guarantee this Hosanna another 20 years or more of positive development. (96 points) at Morrell
2000 Château Hosanna – What a great way to start an evening of Bordeaux. The 2000 Hosanna is a wine that gives and gives yet remains perfectly balanced and elegant throughout. Its alluring and evolved bouquet combined a mix of cedar and spicy with ripe strawberry and chalky minerals. Undergrowth and a hint of blueberry skins emerged with more time in the glass. On the palate, it displayed silky textures contrasted by tart berry fruit, inner floral tones and a hint of sweet pepper. A hint of tannin remained on the long finish, yet the 2000 is already perfectly enjoyable today. (94 points) at Morrell
2008 Château Haut-Bailly – The ‘08 Haut-Bailly showed beautifully and open on this night with an alluring mix of ripe plum, cherry, tobacco and sweet herbs on the nose. On the palate, I found silky textures offset by a hint of rough tannin, yet its mix of blackberry and cherry fruit provided cushion against the ‘08’s austerity and ultimately resulted in a highly enjoyable performance. The finish showed more of the wine’s tough structure, yet it was forgivable after everything this wine gave before. (92 points) at Morrell
2000 Château Haut-Bailly – The nose was intriguing and really seemed to pull me closer to the glass with each sip. Here i found a savory mix of olive and rosemary with intense black raspberry fruit and minerals. On the palate, still-youthful tannin and a bump of acidity created a very taut persona with a twang of bitter fruit. It finished on dried red berries and fine tannin. (91 points) at Morrell
2006 Château Palmer – The turning point of the tasting for me was the 2006 Palmer, a dark and authoritative wine that would probably not appeal to a wider audience, but it was exactly what I wanted on this night. The nose was black as pitch; actually, you may have found notes of pitch buried beneath its wealth of black currant, haunting floral tones, brown sugar, savory spices and tobacco. On the palate, it displayed a series of textural waves that moved the senses, all kept in check by brisk acidity and notes of dried dark fruits and savory herbs. It finished with a display of youthful tannin, earth and inner floral tones. (93 points)
1995 Château Palmer – This is in a wonderful place right now, displaying a dark yet vibrant nose of crushed black cherry, sweet herbs, cedar, smoke and tobacco. On the palate, I found lifted textures with perfectly resolved tannin, possibly decanted too long as a hint of oxidation creeped in, yet altogether beautiful, as dark fruits and tobacco came together along with inner floral and earth tones. It finished on a note of bitter black fruit and dried flowers. (93 points) at Morrell
2005 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou – The nose showed a mix of lush red fruits with sweet floral tones, gravel dust and brown spice. On the palate, it was unbelievably silky and refined, seeming to touch upon all the senses with fleshy dark red fruits and minerals, firming up on the finish, as its youthful tannins saturated the senses. What a beautiful showing, and it’s a wine that will likely continue to evolve for the next two decades. (95 points)
1995 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou – The ‘95 Beaucaillou didn’t show as well as I’d hoped on this night, with an intense dark fruit and sweet tobacco and floral bouquet that seemed to be missed the slight rusticity that I love in these wines. On the palate, I found rich, dense textures with dark red fruits, hints of spice and fine tannin. It finished medium-long on dried fruits. (92 points) at Morrell
1996 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande -The ‘96 Pichon showed a beautiful, mature bouquet with earth tones up front leading to crushed red fruit, dried flowers and spice. On the palate, I found saturating dark red fruits on broad and fleshy frame, as a bump of brisk acidity provided lift. It finished earthy yet fresh with hints of savory herbs and olive. (94 points)
2005 Château Mouton Rothschild – The nose showed an intense core of currant and black raspberry encased in a shroud of tobacco, cedar, spice and graphite. On the palate, it was center-focused with concentrated dark fruits and bitter herbs, as tannin clenched the senses. It finished structured, as tannin saturated the palate, and hints of mineral tinged dried fruits lingered. With everything going on in this glass, it’s almost impossible to imagine this wine at peak. That said, it’s balanced to the core and built like a bomb wanting to explode. (96 points)
1996 Château Mouton Rothschild – Talk about a perfectly mature first growth. The ‘96 Mouton was simply stunning, showing a bouquet of dark soil tones, sweet herbs and olives, then turning more exotic with dusty spice, minerals, smoke and crushed black currant. On the palate, I found intense dark fruits with massive textures that filled the senses and brisk acidity giving way to savory herbs, leather and inner floral tones. Fine tannin mounted on the palate but never seemed to get in the way, especially through its long dark fruit finish. (95 points)
I would also like to take a moment and shout out to Lafayette Grand Café & Bakery, whose service, cuisine and event space made for the absolutely perfect place to enjoy these great wines. This was an incredible evening, and much of that was due to their flawless execution.
Article, photos and tasting notes by: Eric Guido
When asked if I would be interested in attending a ten-year retrospective of Terre Nere, my response was a resounding YES! For me, Terre Nere represents something more than just the sum of its already-impressive parts. Those parts being the location, winemaker, and pioneering methodologies. What Terre Nere represents to me is coming full circle with Sicilian wine and the impetus behind Mount Etna’s rise to the world’s stage.
When i think back to over ten years ago, you’d be hard pressed to find anyone willing to put an Etna wine against the world’s top regions. In fact, the general consensus about Sicily as a whole was that they were trying hard–but failing. That all changed because of Terre Nere. Yes, there were many great wineries before them, and a number of pioneers placed stakes and made moves on Etna. However, Terre Nere was the property that broke out of the Sicilian wine category and put Mount Etna on the map.
Much of this is the result of its owner, Marco di Grazia, whose unrelenting passion for Italian wine guided him to become one of the most famous exporters and innovators in the world. You see, Marco didn’t just discover producers to propel to international fame; he literally guided them to create a product that the world’s wine consumers wanted at the time. The list of Italian properties whose names are staples in the industry today may never have arrived if it wasn’t for this man.
So you can imagine that, when the time came that he wanted to buy vineyards and start his own winery, the entire industry waited with bated breath to hear where Marco di Grazia’s new project would be started. When the news came that it was on Mount Etna, an unproven and volatile region of Sicily, many people scratched the heads in wonder. What did he see in this region? Why would someone want to make wine on the side of an active volcano? Little did they know the level of success that would follow.
In truth, what Marco had done in creating Terre Nere was use the same skill set that helped him succeed as an exporter; he literally saw the potential in something that others missed. On Mount Etna, he found vineyards filled with ancient vines, complex soils, diverse climates and a myriad of possible expressions from a native variety that had the potential to make great wine: Nerello Macalase.
Instead of creating one wine, the choice was made to separate each vineyard parcel to express the diverse terroir of the region. With the majority of his holdings on the Northern side of Mount Etna, Terre Nere began its production with the 2002 vintage. In the grand scheme of things, success came quickly, as my first introduction to the brand was with the 2005 vintage, and already the industry was buzzing about the amazing wines then coming from Mount Etna.
So here I was, over ten years later, and in front me stood a ten-year retrospective, which was followed by a focused tasting of the ‘12 and ‘13 vintages. What was even more amazing was when Marco explained that he had never had the opportunity to taste so many vintages back-to-back, hence it would be an exploration for all of us.
A few of my general impressions:
Two of the questions I had always had regarding Terre Nere was how well they would age and what the drinking window would be on the average bottle. One of the best descriptions I can give to explain these wines and the variety to a newcomer is that they fall somewhere between the expressions and structures of Barolo and Burgundy. Each time I’ve tasted them through the years, I would wonder how the tannin would resolve and what would be waiting on the other side of the aging curve.
Vintage variations aside, I would say that a general guideline would be to wait between 6 – 8 years before they enter their early maturity. This was seen with the ‘08, ‘07 and ‘05 vintages (with 2006 still needing some time to soften).
As for the different vineyard designations, three now stand out to me the most. First is the Santo Spirito, for its early appeal, allure and elegance. Then there’s Calderara Sottana, with its layers of dark fruit, earth and classic structure. Lastly, the Prephylloxera, as it is a wine of such balance and elegance while remaining wild and savage. These three designations have formed my holy trinity of Terre Nere, but don’t sleep of the rest of the lineup. Guardiola, a vineyard at a steep, 30-degree incline, which sits adjacent to Santo Spirito but at higher elevation, is something of a perfect marriage between elegance and structure, while Feudo di Mezzo seems to be the most balanced and consistent wine of the group.
My thoughts on vintages after hearing Marco’s commentary:
- 2014 was an unusual vintage of ups and down, yet with excellent results and producing alluring yet perfectly balanced and structured wines.
- 2013 was difficult as it was wet and unusually cool through the fall. The wines are enjoyable today, but they lack the stamina found in better vintages.
- 2012 was a dry, warm vintage that produced tiny grapes with thick skins. However, these wines showed enough structure to hold their ripe fruit firmly. They show beautifully with plenty of cellar potential.
- 2011 was considered a classic, near-perfect vintage. Dry winter, mild spring, warm summer and perfectly timed rain in September led to an ideal harvest. Classic is the word here, as the wines I’ve tasted are of excellent quality with cellar potential.
- 2010 was off to a good start with an equally beneficial summer, but ups and downs into the fall disturbed ripening. My only example to go by was the Prepylloxera, which show ethereal weightlessness. The jury is still out.
- 2009 was a difficult vintage defined by a harsh winter, short summer and rainy harvest. The Guardiola was a prime example, being my least favorite of the flight with lean fruit and over-accentuated tannin.
- 2008 had some irregular weather, including hail, yet resulted in a late ripening and ultimately beautiful vintage. Warm weather into the fall pushed ripeness to the limits, yet the Santo Spirito still showed very balanced. Past experiences have also been very positive, and I’d keep my eyes out for well-stored bottles to snatch up.
- 2007 (Limited comments from Marco)–I would say this was a riper vintage, and the wine is ready now. I admit to checking wine-searcher for more 2007s immediately after this tasting.
- 2006 (Limited comments from Marco)–Still structured but with the fruit to carry it for many more years.
- 2005 (Limited comments from Marco)–Balanced, pretty, elegant and ready to drink today. Keep an eye out for well-stored ‘05s.
On to the tasting notes (by vintage):
2014 Terre Nere Calderara Sottana Bianco – This had a rich and robust nose, with ripe apple, peach, smoke, hints of tropical fruits, even banana. It was then freshened by minerals and florals with a hint of lemon zest. On the palate, a silky veil of ripe stone fruit covered the senses, providing a pleasing feel, as hints of minerals and inner floral tones set in. This finish displayed a buzz of vibrant acidity with hints of lime and stone lingering long. (93 points) at Morrell
2014 Terre Nere Prephylloxera Vigna di Don Peppino – This showed an intense, exotic and deeply-layered nose, as savory cherry gave way to notes of charred meat and Indian spice before it turned fresh and invigorating with spiced citrus and wild herbs. On the palate, I found rich, intense yet silky textures, with savory cherry and spice giving way to sweet herbs and a hint of citrus. Is it grapefruit and brown spices or dried orange? It’s hard to tell, but the results are stunning. The finish was lifted and long with sweet tannin coating the senses, as notes of sour cherry and orange peel lingered long. This is drop-dead gorgeous–a truly wild yet elegant wine. (97 points) at Morrell
2013 Terre Nere Prephylloxera Vigna di Don Peppino – This was a wine of beautiful contrasts, as intense spiced cherry was offset by soaring floral aromatics, smoke and black earth, in an exotic yet nuanced expression. On the palate, it was lifted and ethereal while saturating the senses with sweet tannin-wrapped black cherry, sweet tobacco and herbs. The finish was floral with fresh red fruit and minerals, yet its tannic clout lingered on. The ’14 may be a step up, but the ’13 is pure class. (94 points)
2013 Terre Nere Santo Spirito – The nose displayed dusty cherry and spice, with smoke-tinged minerality giving way to sweet tea and floral tones. On the palate, vibrant acidity mixed with silky tannin, providing a grippy sensation, as notes of cherry and sweet tea permeated the senses. It finished with dried red fruits and inner floral tones. The 2013 is remarkably youthful, feminine and perfumed. (91 points) at Morrell
2013 Terre Nere Calderara Sottana – What a tremendous bouquet, showing olive and earth up front, followed by rich and massive wave of black cherry, currant and spice with hints of undergrowth. On the palate, it was soft and caressing, displaying ripe cherry and strawberry in a pliant and positively satiating experience. It finished with medium length, as its fruit tapered off and left the mouth watering. This wine was a gentle giant. (92 points)
2013 Terre Nere Feudo di Mezzo – The nose was rich, showing black cherry and herbs with crushed stone minerality. On the palate, I found a mix of tart cherry and strawberry, which seemed to morph into an intense and saturating note of pomegranate, yet through it all a wave of brisk acidity provided a liveliness and mouthwatering experience. It finished with medium-length, displaying hints of wild berry and a twang of lively acidity. (92 points)
2012 Terre Nere Feudo di Mezzo – What a gorgeous wine. The nose was dark and brooding with crushed stone and black earth up front. Dried raspberry came forward with time in the glass, along with dry cocoa and flowers. On the palate, it was silky with acid-driven vibrancy to its tart cherry and spice. It turned floral and mineral-like through the finish with a long and lingering note of sweet tea and smoke. This is so enjoyable today for its pliancy and richness on the palate, yet there’s a lurking structure beneath that is sure to carry it for many years (like Volnay). (93 points)
2012 Terre Nere Calderara Sottana – If I had to pick one wine from these recent tastings to put in my cellar today, this would be it. The 2012 Calderara Sottana was deep, rich, and vibrant. On the nose, I found dark earth, ripe black cherry, crushed raspberry, sweet herbs, dusty spice and minerals. On the palate, silky textures were contrasted by sweet tannin-laced black cherry, spice, cocoa and saline-minerality. It coated the senses throughout the finish with concentrated cherry and pomegranate, while hints of tannin lingered on. Wow! (95 points)
2012 Terre Nere Santo Spirito – The nose was intense and alluring, displaying crushed stone up front, then opening to reveal spiced cherry, dusty floral tones, a hint of herbs and green olive. On the palate, I found soft textures, which were contrasted by a core of spice and tannin-wrapped cherry fruit. Like a freight train speeding along a track, the fruit component seemed unstoppable and center-focused, saturating the senses. It finished on lingering spice, sweet tannin and a coating of concentrated dried cherry. I can only imagine that the future is very bright for the 2012 Santo Spirito. (94 points) at Morrell
2011 Terre Nere Calderara Sottana – The nose was tense and deeply pitched, showing red currant and brown spice, contrasted by pretty floral tones and crushed stone. On the palate, silky textures were contrasted by a mix of minerals, spice, and tart cherry, then seemingly turning to ripe strawberry. It finished remarkably long on sweat tea leaves, spice and a hint of citrus. The ‘11 Calderara Sottana is a pleasure on the palate for its remarkably silky yet refined and elegant expression (all stone and rock soil mixed with black pumice). (95 points)
2010 Terre Nere Prephylloxera Vigna di Don Peppino – The nose was intense, giving and remarkably pretty, displaying sweet herbs and spice up front, giving way to rosy floral tones, a hint of red pepper, and bright cherry. On the palate, it was finessed and pretty with light cherry and inner floral tones This relies on beauty over power and comes across as quite classic. The mouth watered throughout the finish, as a coating of sweet tannin lingered along with citrus-tinged spice. (93 points)
2009 Terre Nere Guardiola – The nose showed dark fruits with hints of dried cherry and crushed raspberry, giving way to saline minerality and savory herbs. It was tense on the palate, as vibrant acid provided a buzz on the palate that resolved into saturating cherry fruit and herbal tones. Savory cherry remained through the finish, along with a coating of gruff tannin. (90 points)
2008 Terre Nere Santo Spirito – The nose started restrained, showing dried cherry and minerals, yet it opened dramatically in the glass, as hints of potpourri and exotic spice filled the glass. On the palate, I found silky textures with intense, densely-concentrated red fruit, which seemed to be wrapped in a mix of spice and sweet tannin. It finished on finesse and was quite pretty with dried red fruits and inner floral tones. (94 points)
2007 Terre Nere Calderara Sottana – The nose showed dark, brooding fruit with savory herbs and brown autumn spice, ultimately very pretty and finessed while adding a note of dried flowers. On the palate, I found silky, alluring textures with black cherry, strawberry fruit and sweet spice that seemed to coat the senses. It finished long, long, long on fresh cherry pits and minerality. This is so beautiful today, both focused and intense, yet ready to enjoy. There may be the slightest hint of heat on the finish, but it is an undeniably beautiful wine. (95 points)
2006 Terre Nere Guardiola – The nose was dark yet quite closed, showing plums, dark spice, crushed stone, black earth, and wax. It was angular on the palate yet still fresh, with notes of bright cherry and softening textures over time. It finished long on candied cherry, inner floral tones, and minerals. This still needs a few more years to truly come together, but it is already enjoyable. (92 points)
2005 Terre Nere Feudo di Mezzo – The nose was pretty and finessed, showing spice-tinged cherry and minerals, along with dusty dried flowers. On the palate, I found a finessed and lifted wine with notes of dried cherry and inner floral tones. It was very pretty on the finish with a mix of tart cherry and minerals. This is ready to enjoy today. It’s vibrant through balanced acidity with perfectly resolved tannin and beautifully pure fruit. (93 points)
Article, Photos and Tasting Notes by: Eric Guido
I remember the early days of my exploration into Italian wine, and to this day, it’s interesting to think about the effect it had on me. You see, I was very new to wine at the time. Don’t get me wrong, I had delved into wines that were well-branded and known by the average consumer, but beyond having a belief that wines I didn’t enjoy were the result of my unrefined palate–instead of the possibility that they were simply poor wines (a common misconception)–all I really knew were names.
I tried them all, yet often didn’t understand what I was tasting. Rioja, Chianti, Burgundy, Barolo and Bordeaux all sat on my table at one time or another. Then came my real introduction to wine in Culinary School, and everything changed. I found so much to like in the wines that were poured for me that I decided to go on my own vinous exploration, and having heard that Italy was one of the most complex countries to understand–that’s where I decided to start. In my mind, mastering the most complex wine-producing country would only make it easier to understand the rest of the world.
What I didn’t expect was that I would develop an undying love for Italian wine that has lasted since those early days. Why did this happen? It’s simple. It’s because Italy not only has a seemingly unending rollcall of their own varieties and expressions, they have also come close to mastering many of the world’s greatest wine styles and international varieties.
That brings me to the Super Tuscan movement, which is today a very hard category to define, but at one time had been best understood as Italy’s attempt to compete with Bordeaux. Let’s put Sangiovese and the Chianti wars aside for a moment and focus on Bolgheri, the Tuscan coast, and what is in my opinion the First Growth Bordeaux of Italy–I’m speaking about Ornellaia.
Although Sassicaia still receives more attention from collectors and auction houses to this day, and lays claim to be the impetus of the Super Tuscan movement, It was Ornellaia who came onto the scene with an image, a sense of style, and the ability to create a brand or name that would outgrow the moniker of Super Tuscan. For Sassicaia, this happened much on its own momentum, yet Ornellaia was a force to be reckoned with, and today, works hard to improve upon their goal of perfection.
Founded by the Marchese Lodovico Antinori, Ornellaia released its first wine with the 1985 vintage. These weren’t lands that had been used for vine-growing in the past, but instead a well-planned development of vineyards with the intention of harnessing the terroir that Sassicaia had already proven capable of successfully growing Bordeaux varieties. So determined to compete with Bordeaux as they were, famed oenologist Michel Rolland was brought in early to help the estate realize its aspirations.
When tasting these early wines, you can see the potential that the winemakers were faced with, even though they were going through a time of exploration and experimentation. Looking at the ‘95 vintage, the wine it produced is a perfect example, as this was not a great vintage for the region, and yet the wine is glorious to this day.
In an average year, Ornellaia is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, but in varying percentages depending on the vintage. Techniques have certainly changed since those early days, as has the winemaker, and yet as Ornellaia evolves, it is remarkable to taste across vintages, because the real secret behind its success is terroir.
Today, Ornellaia is owned by Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi (as of 2005), with a winemaker who has earned his own fame, Axel Heinz. What Axel brought to the picture was a more refined approach and the willingness to allow the wine to firmly express its Tuscan terroir. Other major advancements in the brand included the creation of both a second and third wine. The Le Serre Nuove now uses the fruit that doesn’t make the cut for Ornellaia and has become a wine of some renown in its own right. This further refinement and selection of fruit has resulted in an even more focused and esteemed expression for the company’s flagship wine, Ornellaia.
No expense is spared, just as any first growth in Bordeaux would boast, and the methods rely fully on a strict adherence to excellence, which is seen in the vineyards and the winery. Hand-picking and tending each block of the vineyards separately not only starts in the vineyard but is also followed throughout the vinification process, as parcels are crushed, macerated, fermented and aged for the first year before blending begins.
What this means for the consumer and fans of Le Serre Nuove is that even Ornellaia’s second wine is given the same attention as their flagship all the way through the winemaking process. In the end, the proof is in the bottle, and with each vintage, whether it’s cool, cold or warm, Ornellaia emerges as the pinnacle of what the Bolgheri hills can produce.
It’s also important the recognize the variation between the Tuscan coast and the rest of the region. Here, warm vintages and cold are both moderated by maritime influences. As seen with the 2002 vintage, strict selection returned a wine that is drinking beautifully today. Michel Rolland admits that the owners at the time were quite displeased with the amount of fruit he dropped in hope of creating a great wine in a vintage that most other producers were lucky to produce anything worth drinking at all. Yet that is exactly what sets Ornellaia apart from all the rest–the pursuit of excellence.
With the new release of the 2013 vintage, we can see that even after changing ownership three times over, and with a completely different winemaker at the helm, this is a wine that truly deserves the standing of Tuscany’s First Growth.
Nowhere else is this more evident than in a vintage retrospective that spans nearly twenty years of Ornellaia, the likes of which I was lucky enough to experience first-hand (detailed below). The final result was the conclusion that Ornellaia is as important a wine as any in the world. We will be drinking these vintages for 20 to 30 years, and I’m fully confident that auction markets will sooner or later catch on.
So without further ado, on to the tasting notes:
2013 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia – The nose was youthfully compact, displaying red currant, dusty spice, and minerals, along with a hint of bell pepper. On the palate, it opened with silky textures turning to concentrated tart cherry and cranberry fruit which seemed to grip and saturate the senses with a coating of fine tannin. The long, structured finish was center-focused and lean with hints of bitter herbs lingering. (93 points) find it at Morrell
2012 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia – The nose was elegant, expressing cool red toned fruit, as well as black currant, hints of cola and a beautiful perfume of herbal mint with hints of tobacco leaf. On the palate, it was silky-smooth, yet quite closed, showing dark weighty textures which nearly masked its fine-grained tannin. Flavors of tart red berry with a hint of herbs lingered long into the finish. This is a very pretty expression of Ornellaia, in need of time in the cellar for the palate to catch up to the bouquet, and may warrant a higher score down the road. (94 points) find it at Morrell
2010 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia – The nose showed cherry and floral undergrowth in an elegant and lifted expression. With time in the glass, notes of plum came forward, along with spice and savory herbs. On the palate, I found tart cherry on a medium-bodied frame with hints of minerals, yet ultimately lean in its expression. The finish showed dried strawberry and hints of lingering tannin. (93 points)
2009 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia – The nose was densely packed with black currant, blackberry, and plum with hints of herbs and orange peel. On the palate, it was rich and youthful with black fruits and dark chocolate but lacking depth. The finish was long, showing silky structure with lingering blackberries and dark chocolate. This may not be one of the great vintages for Ornellaia, but there’s no denying how enjoyable it is today. (92 points)
2007 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia – The nose was dark and intense, showing crushed black cherry, dusty spice, plum sauce and hints of sawdust. On the palate, I found rich, silky textures with notes of ripe red fruits, tobacco and sweet herbs, turning savory toward the back palate, as hints of tannin and vibrant acidity contrasted. The finish lingered long, showing a mix of cherry, plum and spice. The 2007 is in a great place right now and still has many years of development ahead. (95 points)
2005 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia – The 2005 Ornellaia is in a wonderful place right now, displaying a dark yet vibrant nose of muddled red fruits (cherry, raspberry and strawberry), giving way to tobacco and floral undergrowth. On the palate, silky, soft textures ushered in a mix of black cherry and dusty spice, along with pretty inner floral tones. Hints of tannin were still present on the long finish, yet the emergence of dried strawberry and earthy minerals provided a perfect counter-balance. The 2005 is on the verge of peaking. (94 points)
2004 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia – The nose was elegant and refined with intense aromas of crushed raspberry, black currant, and tobacco with hints of smoke and spice box. On the palate, I found silky textures over a tannic spine, providing a wonderfully classic feel with resonating notes of wild berry, herbs and tobacco. The finish revealed its still-youthful state with a coating of refined sweet tannin across the senses providing measured grip. This is a gorgeous, classic Ornellaia. (97 points)
2002 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia – Sometimes lightning does strike twice–I tasted the 2002 Ornellaia last year, a wine I didn’t expect to be impressed by, and here we are again. The nose on the 2002 is giving and alluring with pretty floral tones up front, followed by sweet cherry, apple, and with time, turning savory and spicy. On the palate, I found silky, soft textures with notes of rich cherry sauce, plum, currant, and sweet spice. The finish was long and soft with a lasting impression of ripe red fruits and fig. Is there a hint of heat? Maybe just a little; but still, it is just stunning. (93 points)
1995 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore Ornellaia – The ‘95 Ornellaia is perfectly matured and giving at this stage of its life. Here I found notes of savory roasted meats, undergrowth, dried cherry and flowers, fall leaves, and hints of spice. It caressed the palate with notes of dried red fruits, minerals and inner floral tones, as hints of tannin and acidity mingled. The finish was refined and long, showing dusty spice, dried strawberry and earthy florals. This was a beautifully elegant and mature showing, and it was enjoyable in every way. (93 points)
Article, photos and tasting notes by: Eric Guido
Taking lunch at Gotham Bar and Grill with Cyril Chappellet, of the historic Chappellet winery, is an experience I will not soon forget. As Napa Valley is always in a state of flux, it’s refreshing to hear the words of a man whose family has been entrenched in the industry for almost 50 years. In fact, Cyril’s experience in Napa started as a small boy, when his parents Donn and Molly decided to plant the Valley’s first high-elevation vineyard on Pritchard Hill. It’s a winery that watched today’s Napa Valley grow up around it.
Imagine, if you will, being raised up in such an environment and witnessing the entire industry morph over the course of decades. Today, the hillside and mountain top vineyards in Napa Valley are all the rage, yet the Chappellet family was producing a prestigious portfolio of wines long before our modern-day critics became keen to the location. Thinking back to only ten years ago, it was seldom said that terroir mattered. Yet the Chappellet family now works with what is considered a Grand Cru of the region, and they do it with class. All of the vineyards are managed through strict organic practices, and of all the families holdings, only 16% of their land is used as vineyards, while the rest remains uncultivated.
It seems to me that they manage themselves as custodians of old-school Napa ideals and values, while always keeping an eye on the future. Chappellet is now neighbors with some of the biggest names in the region, yet in the grand scheme of things, their prices remain remarkably fair. The style is not of the rich, ripe giants of the valley, or the over-restrained. Instead, they aim for balance, elegance and a wine that will only improve with maturity. These wines exude class, and their popularity only confirms what this family has always understood yet humbly refused to boast–Chappellet is one of the top producers of the region.
While most consumers look immediately to the high-scoring Signature or Pritchard Hill Cabernets, it’s wines like the Chenin Blanc that tell a deeper story and show a commitment to the land. This is a wine whose fruit is sourced from Pritchard Hill, a prestigious terroir and location that could easily be used to plant more Cabernet and increase production of their flagship bottling. Instead, Chappellet thumbs their nose at the idea of tearing these vines up. As a result, the Chenin Blanc is one of those special kind of wines from Napa Valley that we seldom see, and it offers a tremendous experience.
Yet there’s also a lot to be said for value, which is another Chappellet ideal. The Signature Cabernet Sauvignon is not to be confused as second wine, as the majority of its fruit is sourced from the Pritchard Hill vineyards, with the balance coming from trusted local growers. In its price point, you can’t beat the quality–and that speaks volumes to their commitment to both the land and their customers.
And so, as I taste with the humble, witty and insightful Cyril, I can’t help but think about how hard it is to decide what’s more interesting–the conversation or the wines in front of me. I guess great wine really does come from great people, and the Chappellets are a perfect example. If you don’t already know them, then allow me to make the introduction.
On to the tasting notes:
2012 Chappellet Cabernet Sauvignon Pritchard Hill Estate Vineyard – The nose showed dark, mineral-tinged blackberry fruit, tobacco, exotic spice, and a hint of black licorice. On the palate, I found dense, weighty textures infused with fine tannin, as rich dark fruits fought for supremacy. It finished long on grippy tannin with tart, saturating black fruit, dark chocolate and spice. There is so much going on here, yet the wine is 5-10-years away from its drinking window. Bury it deep. (95 points)
2013 Chappellet Signature Cabernet Sauvignon – The nose showed a mix of dark red fruits and minerals offset by hints of vanilla, cocoa and clove. On the palate, it displayed silky textures with impeccable balance, showing red and black berries, spice and fine grain tannin that provided perfect grip. The finish was wonderfully long with a mix of red currant, spice, sweet herbs, and palate-coating tannin. A hint of blackberry bitterness lingered. The 2013 Signature was stunning today, but it should be even better in five years’ time. (93 points)
2012 Chappellet Cabernet Franc – The nose showed ripe blackberry and mineral-infused cherry, sweet herbs and earth tones. On the palate, silky rich textures hosted a mix of dark red and black fruits in a vibrant, balanced, yet dense effort. It finished beautifully long on saturating fruits, dark chocolate, sweet herbs and a hint of tannic grip. (92 points)
2013 Chappellet Chenin Blanc – The nose was highly expressive with ripe tropical fruits up front, sweet herbs, crushed stone, banana and exotic floral tones. On the palate, it was ripe yet unbelievably fresh with notes of mango and citrus saturating the senses along with fleshy textures which seemed more like nectar than wine. The finish was long, palate-coating, yet fresh, with hints of banana and sweet lemon. To think that this is all neutral wood is amazing. This is just pure Napa Chenin Blanc. (92 points) Find it at Morrell
2013 Chappellet Chardonnay Signature – This showed a stunning and unique bouquet of savory herbs and hints of olive up front, followed by ripe peach and pear. There was an exotic richness on the nose that kept me coming back to the glass. On the palate, I found smooth and pliant textures with notes of sweet herbs, ripe apple, kiwi and minerals. The finish was staying with hints of young peach and a lingering kiss of sweetness. (91 points)
2013 Chappellet Mountain Cuvée – The nose was generous, but not overdone, with ripe red fruit, currant and blackberry giving was to savory herbs. On the palate, I found silky textures with red berry and blueberry fruit, sweet herbs, spice, and hints of tobacco. It was wonderfully juicy and vibrant while maintaining fleshy contours and finishing fresh with red berry fruits. This is a tremendous value for Napa Cabernet. (91 points)
Article and Tasting Notes by: Eric Guido
I must also pay tribute to Gotham Bar and Grill for their absolutely amazing meal and presentation. It’s not often that a meal leaves an impression during such an amazing tasting. However, this one had me talking about it for the rest of the day. I’m looking forward to returning soon.
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